Men At Arms 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy and Hans Kraus |
| Submitted By: | Chris Hillios on Oct 19, 2008 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Head straight up the dark face left of the Try Again's left-facing corner up, just right of the overhanging corner (you'll be just a couple of feet from Try Again). Head back left about 6 feet to just below a small roof. Place a small nut, and head up just left of the grassy seam. Once you pull up over the roof, it's good to have a small C3 or green alien. Continue up a balancy move (or 2) then head directly right to the shared chains (but don't forget to protect your second!).
Location Start at the Try Again left-facing corner, down and right from the Mac Wall.
Protection Standard Rack with double small nuts, and doubles on small cams or 2 for the crux ... limited gear options as you pull the roof and the balance crux above.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.10b PG13
| Good write up for this route, I followed the description in the Grey Dick, which advised me to build a belay on a tiny stance with small gear. A 5.9/.10- move came right after the belay, I would have crashed into my partner and compromised the integrity of our less than perfect anchor (read: aided through on little c3 cams). After that, I climbed pretty much straight up to the GTL. This got interesting, as rock quality was okay but fallen trees attached to not much were pointing downward aimed at me like a missile. Big lumps of mushroom shaped unconsolidated dirt. Ick.
In short, keep you head together for the move of the ledge down low, bust a right to the Try Again anchors at the top, and enjoy this otherwise fine climb. |
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Jul 1, 2011
| I got to the stance at the end of P1 (according to Grey Dick), and like lucander decided there was no way to build a solid belay there. Went up right around short corner, then back left towards blunt arete. Lots of possible paths on the face, just keep moving up to the top. |
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