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Slick Rock
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Memorial Route S 
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Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,293
Submitted By: JacobD on Sep 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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1/3 the way up, looking down.

Description 

The crux comes on the 6th and 7th pitches which in my opinion both go at 5.8+. Take plenty of quickdraws because the crux is slabby, but the bolts are quite close together at the hard parts. On some of the easier pitches there is decent runout. All bolted anchors. Comes really close to the regular route at pitch 5 or so.


Location 

Starts a little bit to the right of the regular route. Follow the trail past a big dihedral and then look up for the first bolt. The start is marked by a carin. The first bolt is hard to find so look carefully. You can either rap the route with double rope rappels or walk off to the right. The walk off is steep and requires some down climbing. Then some bushwhacking through the gully. It follows a trail the whole way back down to the base. An obvious landmark is looking at the high point and then walking a little bit to the right.


Protection 

13 quick draws, cord and locking biners for anchors



Photos of Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down onto a sea of granite!
BETA PHOTO: Looking down onto a sea of granite!
The triple crack system in the middle is the regular route.  The sport route starts just to the right of this.
BETA PHOTO: The triple crack system in the middle is the regul...
Halfway up, looking up.
Halfway up, looking up.
Chris at one of the belays.
Chris at one of the belays.
Comments on Memorial Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 29, 2014
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great climb! If this were in Colorado it would get done all the time (along with the Regular Route). I might take a finger sized cam to avoid the big runout on pitch 6 next time. Not too many 1000' sport climbs in the US, definitely check it out if you are in the area. Bring your slab shoes, my toes still hurt...

By jhump
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I did the Regular Route a few years back, then a few days later did the Memorial. The Memorial was rather ho-hum after the classic Regular. A few too many bolts for my liking. 1/2 to 1/3 the hole count would probably be adequate. Oh well, it was better than being at work. Heading up there next week and will try the harder routes on the left side. Might just do the Regular Route for fun too.

By supersexaphonic
Jul 18, 2011

My wife and I just did the Memorial Route. For the most part I really liked the climb, but, in my opinion, its more like solid 5.9 than a 5.8. I give the climb two out of three stars.
If I do this climb again I will definitly bring a yellow or green alien for the roof. The move inst too hard, but I was at least 15 feet out at that point (so 30-40 footer was possible). I dont really think a new 5.8 leader would like this climb as they would be run out often at their limit. This climb, to me, is a 5.9 route for solid 5.10a/b leaders.
Also, the last two pitches are a bit redundant (for those of us who tire of slab climbing easily) in that they are pretty much the same move over and over-put foot on nothing and stand up, repeat. A nice option would be to climb the memorial route to the top of pitch six (the crux) and then take the regular route to the top or rap from here. Two ropes to rap! The regular route is ten feet to the left at the top of pitch six.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Cruised this on monday. All the blots look good, only one lose hanger but still bomber. Fun climb, its 9 pitches if you stop to belay off the set of semi rusty anchors just after the first crux, Pitch 6? Agree with 5.8+ rating.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Seemed a bit soft for 5.8, and there were about 3 times as many bolts as I'm used to seeing on a slab climb, even on the easy pitches . . .
That said it's a nice long climb on good rock with some great views.

By KyleKD
Jul 26, 2011

Bring your sticky shoes! Beautiful rock and setting. There were some bolts (a spinner on the third pitch) that had been chopped and replaced--everything was very bomber. I think the 5.8+ rating is accurate. We used a nut on the roof and it made the experience all the better. Thanks for putting it up!

By K.C.
Aug 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My son and I did this climb 2 weeks ago. Our second multi-pitch sport route and a whole lot of fun for us. We thought that it was a 5.8+ or 5.9. The climb was just an amazingly beautiful, enjoyable climb for us. However, a there are few things I would like to point out that I don't think are mentioned here yet. First, the approach. Not really bad, but plan on 30 minutes + whatever amount of time it takes you to find a way across the river - which did not seem obvious to us. Second, having come from mostly climbing at the Red River Gorge I felt like there was a lot of run out. Not dangerous, because its a slab, but made me a bit nervous. Took a pitch or two to get over. Finally, the decent ... . From the description here I thought it would not be too bad, but wow. The path/walk-off did not seem obvious to us and got hairy fast. After fearing for our safety we came upon a tree with 5 different colors of webbing and a rap ring that could be used to double rope repel out of danger. We added our gear and made it down safe. It would be great if someone could post a google earth image, map, or something about where the "real" walk-off is. Clearly several groups have ended up where we did and probably shouldn't have?

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

K.C.: I agree about the river crossing not being obvious. It took us awhile to find our way to it the first time we went to SR. There are actually two spots with logs to cross on, one involves less bushwhacking than the other.

Regarding the descent, I think you were on route. It's steep and loose. The 4th class chimney downclimb actually isn't as bad as it looks from above, and in my opinion is the least sketchy part of the descent. There are numerous loose rocks just waiting to be dislodged and hit someone on the portion of the descent before the chimney. In my opinion by the time you've made it to the rap anchors the worst is over. After the chimney it is still steep and bushwhacky, but at least there aren't any more loose blocks.

Plan on 20-30 minutes to walk down if not rapping.

By Trevor.
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Linked the first 2 pitches on a 70m. Really fun and mellow climb. I would say the cruxes are right around 5.8, with the vast majority of the climbing 5.7 or easier. Will probably simul-climb the first 4 pitches next time. No big runouts, even on the easy pitches. We brought a few small cams as recommended in the comments, but didn't place them at all. You can place a .5 C4 around 2/3rds up, but the move it protects is less than 10 feet out and isn't hard. Bring lots of runners, rope drag would be pretty bad without them. Walk off was fairly easy to figure out, just top out and find the second gully to climbers right and descend it. Follow a steep loose trail down, and downclimb or rappel past a loose chimney. Try not to dislodge rocks on the way down, the descent is a bit of a bowling alley. The trail eventually brings you right back to the base of the route.

By S.Lee
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Had a great time on this route. We had no problems finding the approach, as of 20 July 13 there is a very obvious log jam just below the turnout with solid logs that was no problem to cross. We did however have issues finding the start of the route, thought the dihedral mentioned in the description was one that starts the standard route. Turns out its a very large right facing dihedral quite a ways to the right. I would have to agree with the above comments that there are some 5.9 moves on the route, not many but a few. Other than those I agree the rest is 5.8+ at the hardest. We noticed probably 3 or 4 loose hangers, one that I was able to hand tighten. We took a few small cams and nuts and didnt see anywhere worth placing them, the bolt protection is adequate. If the roof people are talking about placing gear in is the same one I am thinking of (first moves above the older anchor bolts??) I thought once I reached the roof it was pretty smooth climbing until the crux at the end of the pitch. Anyways a great route if you lack the trad experience to try the standard route, message me if you have questions.

By Matthew Abbott
Aug 21, 2013

Midnight ascent 08-17-13. Car to car in 5 hours. We did it in 6 pitches with simul-climbing intertwined. Good times.

By Jeff Botimer
16 hours ago
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can be done with a 50m rope. Most of the pitches use all 50m but it was clearly bolted with that in mind. Great route, fantastic view.