Memorial Daze 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | NickMartel on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Me leading "Memorial Daze".
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Description First route to the right of where the trail meets the wall. Climbs an open book. Mostly pretty easy climbing but with 2 seperate cruxes one between the 2ed and 3ed bolt and one between the 5th bolt and the chains.
Location First route right of the trail. Climbs open book. Has funny looking belay anchor bolt hanger at the bottom (other routes have belay anchor bolts but with normal hangers).
Protection 5 bolts to chain anchors.
Kristina TR'ing "Memorial Daze".
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| Comments on Memorial Daze |
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By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 10, 2011
| The 4th bolt hanger can spin half a rotation, however the nut can't be tightened by hand at all. I will tighten next time I am here but if you are heading up here pplease bring a wrench and tighten it ASAP.
I would rate it 5.7- if that were an option but it's not and this is more like 5.7 than 5.6 but not as sustained as other 5.7's in the area but the single hardest move is as hard as on other routes in the area. |
By KristinaB
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Route on the 'open book'. Not a sustained 5.7; more like a 5.6+ with hardest move a 5.7. I think the crux of the route is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt (of 5 total). Between the last bolt and chains is a lil' mini crux. |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Nov 5, 2011
| If you start up the white groove to the left of the 1st bolt and stay to the left of the bolts and avoid using the arete you can make it significantly harder, like 5.9, but forcing yourself to not take the easiest path is a bit contrived, but fun if you already have the rope up and want to get in a lap on what is essentially a different climb without pulling the rope. |
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