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Memorial Day Buttress
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Memorial Day Route 

Memorial Day Route 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D. Boyd & D. Turville, 1970 FFA: J. Donini & M. Ward, 1978
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: mountainsense on Sep 28, 2008
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James Huntsman pulling through the finishing roof ...

Description 

An obscure, yet adventurous line that deserves mention, the Memorial Day Route follows the obvious weaknesses on this seldom-climbed formation near the mouth of LCC. Begin at a large, keyed-in spike of rock beneath the prominent roof. A few gritty moves gain an undercling that traverses leftward past a pin, then pulls a small roof to a ramp. Belay from a comfortable, low-angled stance located just beneath the start of the Mouth Variation (.11). Step across a gaping chasm and into the cleft just beneath the obvious Mouth slot. You may encounter a bit of dirt and/or moss--most of the holds were cleaned during our ascent--on the thin edges as the route meanders in and out of the corner past two pins. Pull out of the corner then onto a slab with a two pin anchor. The final pitch climbs a right-diagonalling crack through an overlap, then past a scary flake resting precariously on a ledge below the final steep, wide crack. Belay from the ledge directly above, or continue up the wild, featured slab to anchor in the trees. Get after it!


Location 

Approach the Memorial Day Buttress from either the Bongeater or the Crescent Crack Buttress; either approach will involve at least some bushwhacking through the scrub oak... Descend from atop the third pitch--a double rope rappel from slings in trees will put you on the ground just uphill and to the east of the start of the route.


Protection 

Bring a standard rack with cams from micros to fists--doubles may be useful.



Photos of Memorial Day Route Slideshow Add Photo
Jared Belnap on the final pitch .11 to the summit.
Jared Belnap on the final pitch .11 to the summit.
Jared and Aaron after the third pitch roof and just after it stopped snowing.
Jared and Aaron after the third pitch roof and jus...
Comments on Memorial Day Route Add Comment
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By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Mar 23, 2011

What a day!! After not climbig very much since moving back to Az, this approach and route spanked me, and I seconded the whole thing. A burly start with a burly finish with in your face climbing in between. Kudos to Jared for the awesome job leading it. Later that evening, he went out and ran 16+ miles, before watching the fights. What a beasts!! It was so cold our hands and feet were numb for most of the climbing, finally at the belays my hands would warm up and just kill. The weather was nasty!! It snowed for a good part of the climb and the wind never let up. All and all an unforgettable day out with James, the Manimal,and Belnap. Thanks Guys!!

By zoso
Mar 23, 2011

Nice Blog.