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Memorial Day Route
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Memorial Day Buttress
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Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Eyebrow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graduate School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High School Drop Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mouth Variation, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pork Shoulder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Small Brain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tombstone Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tombstone Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | D. Boyd & D. Turville, 1970 FFA: J. Donini & M. Ward, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,780 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | mountainsense on Sep 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
An obscure, yet adventurous line that deserves mention, the Memorial Day Route follows the obvious weaknesses on this seldom-climbed formation near the mouth of LCC. Begin at a large, keyed-in spike of rock beneath the prominent roof. A few gritty moves gain an undercling that traverses leftward past a pin, then pulls a small roof to a ramp. Belay from a comfortable, low-angled stance located just beneath the start of the Mouth Variation (.11). Step across a gaping chasm and into the cleft just beneath the obvious Mouth slot. You may encounter a bit of dirt and/or moss--most of the holds were cleaned during our ascent--on the thin edges as the route meanders in and out of the corner past two pins. Pull out of the corner then onto a slab with a two pin anchor. The final pitch climbs a right-diagonalling crack through an overlap, then past a scary flake resting precariously on a ledge below the final steep, wide crack. Belay from the ledge directly above, or continue up the wild, featured slab to anchor in the trees. Get after it!
Location
Approach the Memorial Day Buttress from either the Bongeater or the Crescent Crack Buttress; either approach will involve at least some bushwhacking through the scrub oak... Descend from atop the third pitch--a double rope rappel from slings in trees will put you on the ground just uphill and to the east of the start of the route.
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