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A good wall with steep routes and good holds. If you are looking for some longer single pitches, this may be your place.
The wall does seem to see some traffic, but mostly on the short 6's. The longer and harder routes seemed to be free most of the time.
The destination climb here is most certainly Cross-Eyed (5.12a) but Smoking Room (5.11b) also deserves to be climbed!
Approach by going to the surfer's left, which is to say the left side of Ton Sai if facing the beach from the water. Follow a trail back behind a solitary restaurant to the bright rust-colored Fire Wall. Continue past Fire wall on the cliff-base trail, as if heading out to the point and duck down on the obvious trail through a bit of a tunnel through an arch of rock. You will emerge from this brief tunnel at the base of Melting Wall.
The route Bon Soir (5.11c) is immediately to your right if you turn around and look back towards the cave.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
6 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Melting Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Melting Wall:
Cross Eyed 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For Melting Wall
Cross Eyed 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Asia
: ... : Melting Wall
Of the few dozen routes I did, this one was my favorite route in the Railey/Ton Sai area. It is a long route with the crux a few bolts from the top and a big pump factor. Nice stems to a stalactite up top stop the pump clock after the small holds-crux a bolt or two before reaching the anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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