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BETA PHOTO: S-Curve: Melting Point
Second route as you arrive to the wall. Climbs just right of the huge roof.
Fun climb. Probably only a one star but I gave it two because it's long single pitch route. Tough start but eases up, then leads to another 5.10 move, eases again then the final crux before the chains. A lot of, almost too good, resting spots on this route.
9 quickdraws for bolts and fixed pins with a two anchors at the top. Bring a longer rope.
Kevin Jessing pulling out of the 5.10a crux.
|Comments on Melting Point
|By Peter Gram|
From: Park City, UT
Aug 7, 2004
This route has some really cool moves, but is not sustained at all. A tricky opening sequence leads to a long section of easy rock. The upper wall (bolts 5 through 7) is really good. Steep jug haul that makes this route.
Make sure to have a 60m rope for the rap. Otherwise, use the intermediate rap station just to the right for 2 rappels.
|By Nathan Fisher|
May 22, 2005
Good route, with good exposure and length. That being the reason I gave 2 stars. Otherwise the long expanse of easy moves detract.
|By Tolga Tasdizen|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 24, 2005
Sort of decked on this route today. After clipping the first bolt, couldn't go straight up so I went 4-5 feet to the right like I have done many times before. I had just cleared the lip (probably 7-8 feet diagonally from the first bolt) when my right hand hold broke. The rope started catching probably a few feet off the ground, but I still hit with my left side. Luckily, I hit a few feet from the rock at the base so I am fine except for some bruises on my left arm, knee and hip. We left the draw on the first bolt and headed home... Just a heads up for others who like going to the right after the first bolt like me... you are going to be missing a hold there!
|By L. Hamilton|
Oct 14, 2006
Did this route for the first time yesterday, Friday the 13th, and noticed that the first bolt is placed just above a lip so your biner levers across the edge. One of the higher bolts (the 2nd?) had a similar placement. In both cases, threading a sling through the hanger looked better than clipping directly.
Nice climb, though.
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.10b PG13
60m rope doesn't quite make it. It's short like 3 feet. It was close enough that I could get down by grabbing the rope on the other end and lowering myself the last 3 feet without the ATC. This could be a classic climb if it wasn't for the horrible bolts on it. The second bolt is one of those old bolts that doesn't have a high strength rating. Another bolt spins (not good). And the first bolt on the second crux is barely out of reach from the comfortable ledge after the long run-out. I recommend putting another bolt before it, or you could find somewhere to place some pro. After the second crux, the only protection you have is 2 old pitons. The first one looks ok, but the second looks pretty sketchy!! The top anchors look kind of bad too, but they work. I would recommend changing them, but since I've never put in bolts nor do I have the equipment, I can't do it. Overall awesome climb. It would be a classic if it had better protection!
May 13, 2008
Rappelled this with two ropes today. The anchors are the highest on the wall so I don't think a 60 would cut it.
|By Lucas J Matthews|
Sep 21, 2010
I fail to distinguish this route from "Clastic Cling" (10d).
|By Daniel Winder|
Sep 22, 2010
Clastic Cling is the line just to the right. It joins Melting Point just after the final roof. Climbs very similarly to MP but is harder to get off the deck.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 24, 2011
You can rappel (but not lower) with a 60.
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 8, 2013
The intended start on the leaning rail just underneath the right of the first bolt gives the full 5.10b rating. Starting several feet left leads to slightly easier holds but requires you to traverse under the bolt. Either way a stick clip is recommended.