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The Melting Mud Wall
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Melting Into Madness 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tyler, Greg, Aaron, Zack
Page Views: 2,712
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Climbing out of the steep section of the shallow d...

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  • Description 

    A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11


    a shallow dihedral on the middle to left of the Far East Gate.


    10 or 20 (or 21?) draws with some being long runners if you want to link both pitches, a 70m rope gets up and back down to the ground.

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    Comments on Melting Into Madness Add Comment
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    By Ryan Brough
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Jul 12, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    The second pitch is named The Bird is the Word and is rated 5.10d, just like Melting Into Madness; however, it is still best to be linked as one long pitch.
    By Alec
    Jul 10, 2008

    Nice climb -- business is getting past the hump above the dihedral. Felt a bit easier than .10d, though I didn't do the second pitch.
    By Ben Folsom
    Aug 7, 2010

    As Ryan said, really nice as one long pitch. A 70m gets you down no problem.
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