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 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
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Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 
Brave Little Toaster S 
Castle Greyskull 
Catapult, The S 
Couch Warrior S 
Death Drives a Stick S 
Dragon's Lair S 
Evil Alchemist S 
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 
Gangland S 
Loose Cannon S 
Meltdown S 
Moat Jump S 
Moat Pump S 
Phrenology S 
Rogue Warrior S 
Siege Warfare S 
Unsorted Routes:

Meltdown 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ed Strang
Page Views: 1,880
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Jenna Lupia cruising through the bottom of the rou...

Description 

Starts on easy jugs, and gets progressively harder as you get higher. Pull a few moves off some small crimps and setup for the final desperate crux at the anchors.

Location 

First route on the left side of the Mainwall. On the small pillar just left of the chimney. Between Phrenology and Battering Ram.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Anchors


Photos of Meltdown Slideshow Add Photo
Jenna Lupia low on the route
Jenna Lupia low on the route

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By Dave Wachter
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Short but sustained. Bouldery crux at the top will test your crimp and core reserves. Maybe with lots of power endurance and perfect beta this could go at 12b... why can't we all just be sick-strong like Mike and crush our way through on-sight and say, "that wasn't too bad, now was it?" "12-!" Great route, though, for sure, whatever the grade!
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 15, 2010

Hey Dave, after an extensive alcohol fueled debate about my proposed downgrades on Mountain Project, I realized that this is one I wasn't sure of. So I've updated the rating to reflect the consensus and probably more accurate grade of 12c. I still think that Rogue Warrior might be harder than this.

Now about the Demon... I'm staying solid on that one.
By Laeserguns
Sep 2, 2010

FA: Ed Strang
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack.