Mellow Yellow 

Some of these comments are already covered under the link-up "Mellow Fellow", but I thought I'd add them here for completeness.

This is a great climb, and the hard climbing is well protected. The 11d crux on p1 sports a fixed pin that gives a top rope for the hardest moves, and this can be backed with good gear a few feet lower. Just above the lip of the roof, there is a perfect slot for a #2 Camalot.

There is a fixed sling/piton/nut anchor at the top of p1, so one could rap from here, but P2 is also very good and interesting. It gets hard right off the belay, fortunately there are a few fixed pins here. After clipping the last pin, one can go straight up into the corner; this looked hard. We reached out right to some great huecos and pulled over the roof this way. After the roof, this pitch gets much easier (5.9ish), but the protection is small and well spaced.

I would be interested in trying the 12a seam variation for the last pitch, but we were scared off by the rotten looking bolts (1/4" buttonheads w/ Leeper hangers?). I don't know anything about replacing bolts- do you have to apply for permission with the park? If anyone with knowledge and experience wants to get up there and put some good hardware in, feel free to send me an email and I'll come out and help.
-Scott

Replaced the bolts on the final pitch today. Thanks to Josh Thompson for the expertise and ASCA for the hardware.

Thanks for the work, Scott.

Double thanks on the work, Scott!

After years of looking at the striking giant roofs and headwall, my friend Cody and I climbed this mega classic yesterday. Again I would like to thank Scott B. for replacing those bolts as the headwall pitch is not to be missed, especially now that the hardware was updated.

The pins in the roofs are good. The "anchor" atop the first pitch is so-so, but like Scott said, you can back it up. If you're not pumped silly, keep going through the next roof. You will find an upward-pointing flake to sling (there were two slings on it already) and just to the right is a shallow but good crack for a natural anchor (sizes in the 0.3 range/yellow Aliens). The 5.9 section is a little run out to get started, but adequate gear is found a little further up.

Splitting this in two pitches is the way to go. P1) through both roofs; P2) the 5.9 section/the 12a headwall/ to the top.

Thank you for the retro bolting. It would be nice to have the old bolts removed. Currently there are 2 bolts side by side.

Jesse, let's get this straight. What I am hearing is that the old bolts were chopped (i.e. heads sawed off) and new holes drilled and new bolts put in next to the chopped ones?

Joseph... the current situation: new bolts next to old bolts. All still in the wall as of Sept. 14 2012.