Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is another linkup for the uninhibited. Mellow Fellow combines the exciting, strenuous Vertigo Die-rect roof, the classic Vertigo, and the complete Mellow Yellow to produce a stiff bit of Eldorado mayhem.
Begin on the West Redgarden trail, a bit beyond the popular Mr. Natural.
P1: Climb a clean, sparsely protected offset dihedral (5.9) to a belay just below the huge roof (2-bolt anchor). P2: Tackle the roof (crux of Vertigo Die-rect, 5.11d) after arranging the requisite assortment of gear - a bit of a pump getting this all in. Proceed to the Vertigo ledge. P3: Combine P1 & P2 of Vertigo, fun, well-protected 5.9 corners. Belay at a spectacular ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. P4: Combine P3 & P4 of Vertigo, the crux, overhanging dihedral (5.11b) and the roof finish. Doing the dihedral and roof together creates one of the finest 5.11 leads in the canyon. From the summit, work north to the upper, upper reaches of the Upper Ramp, to a point 90 feet below an imposing, A-framed roof (Mellow Yellow). P5: Climb corners up and right under the roof (licheny, 5.9 or so), tackle the roof crux, then up and slightly right to a stance with slings. P6: Proceed up a corner with less-than-inspiring gear, and either climb it directly (5.11c), or find some buckets on the right edge to shoot for (a little spooky but easier, maybe 5.11b). Now punch straight up the headwall and belay. P7: Climb the steep, blank face above clipping a few bolts on the way. This is the crux of the linkup, a very sharp, technical bit of 5.12a (or harder). Continue up the nebulous upper reaches of the wall.
The usual little gadgets and stuff, including RPs, TCUs or Aliens, nuts, and cams to 3". The rock is generally sound, although a couple sections (in particular the Vertigo Die-rect roof) climb through broken, maroon bands and are somewhat fractured. Expect to climb up to 5.9 or low-end 5.10 a bit above your gear, with bad fall potential. The cruxes protect well, although placing gear can be strenuous. The technical crux (the Mellow Yellow headwall) is protected by a couple of (widely spaced) bolts...mid-'80s vintage.
Another great link-up is Suparete to Doub-Griffith to Mellow Yellow ("Hello Jello"?). David A. Turner
By Dr. Dan Dec 3, 2002 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Another link up that is fun and not as hard as the Vertigo start is to do the direct start (10b) on the Yellow Spur. At the top of P4 go right up a lose ramp until you are under a large bulge. The bulge is solid and fun and looks harder than it is (9). Once over the bulge angle right up into the big roof on Mellow Yellow. Climb the roof using the crimp on the right facing wall and reach for a pincher hold out left. Once over the roof there are ample tiny crimp holds, but no pro. Move right about 8 ft to a some fixed gear and a sling. From there work up and slightly right again to a corner and climb an 11c slot on less than inspiring pro to exit. The rest of the climb is covered as above.
There is a fairly decent pin in the middle of the roof, which protects the crux getting to the lip(5.11d +). Have a 2.5 friend ready to fire into a bomber placement just above the lip, then be prepared for 10+ slab moves to the belay stance.
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I have no excuse not to give it a try now......
By Dr. Dan Feb 27, 2004 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Probably a little late, but there is a good fixed pin in the vertical seam going up to the roof that is bomber (would be a nasty swing if you came off above the roof). There is a fixed nut with a sling about 8 feet to the right after you get over the roof. There is fixed gear right below the second roof.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 27, 2005 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
The swing off of the pin isn't that bad. I've taken a few bombers on it! The belay above the roof still sucks a little though. I replaced most of it last fall, but it really leaves something to consider before you want to lead fall from the 11c pitch onto it.
First pitch of the Wisdom, 10d, to Scary Canary crux, 12b, to linking Le Toit, 10b - Plastic Jesus, 11-, up the ramp to the Mellow Fellow linking the 5.11d with the 11c, finish with the 5.12 boulder problem finish!
Not to be missed!
Sidebar: I took Honnold up here: he linked the entire Mellow Fellow into the Direct in a single 80 meter pitch, and he didn't seem to break a sweat, seriously amazing to watch.