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Sunny Side (Right End)
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Melanoma 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: John Hymer
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: LeeAB on Feb 15, 2010

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Description 

Supposedly one of the more popular routes but lacks the chalk to prove it. This route is about the steepest on the Right end of the Sunny Side and does not slab out at the top like the majority of the routes here.

Start with a difficult move off the ground to the first bolt, easier climbing leads up to the second. From here bear down on some small holds on the steep panel and get aggro to latch a distant edge. Move into the obvious flake and catch a quick shake before heading up the wall on flat and positive edges. Catch a rest in the broken band and eyeball the steep wall above. Climb the upper wall on edges, sidepulls slopers and pockets past the 5th and 6th bolts to jugs just before the anchors.

Apparently graded 5.12c originally and 5.12d in the Rock & Ice Road Trips from a few years back. Maybe the seemingly sanbagged grade is what leads to the lack of chalk.

Location 

This route starts right above the approach trail and climbs the steep grey wall to a hanging headwall above.

Protection 

6 bolts to a bolted anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.


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By Joe Collins
Jan 11, 2009

Does anybody know if any key holds on this route are broken or not? When I last visited this crag in 2001, this high-quality route was well chalked and a relatively popular 12+. On a recent visit, there was no chalk at all and I noticed some rock scars.

Edit: Rumor has it that a well-known Canadian climber visited here about a decade ago, and was completely shut down by this route. He guessed that the grade was mid-5.13. John Hymer, who I believe put up this route, gave me the full blow-by-blow beta, but I didn't put it away before I moved from NM. In any case, I thought it was a titch harder than Gluttony, which is a pretty solid 12d.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 16, 2010

Joe, I don't know if it broke or not. The only place it seemed as though anything could have come off was the hard move off of the 2 small edges in the middle of the steepest section. Was there a hold to go to with your right hand previously? If not and this has always gone up and left off of those 2 crimps it seems unlikely that anything broke.

The lack of chalk is a shame though as this is a great route.