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Routes in Comp Rock - East Face
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[Redacted] T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Already Been Done Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bathing Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Continental Crust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cryptic Vision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Ridge Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handy T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Humdinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mantle Dynamics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Ian Cavanaugh |
| Page Views: | 1,519 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Cavanaugh on Nov 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Start on easier climbing up to the first bolt. Lay back/stem your way up a blob like feature to a just out of reach finger lock. At the second bolt move back right via a body tension cross through to a sloping dish. Match that, mantle up, clip 3rd bolt and get a ok rest. Here comes the fun stuff. 30ft of stemming and slapping, get gear where you can in the seam. When possible, cut right to the next crack system over and head up over the last crux section. If you have made it this far, you get a sweet 25ft of dessert crack to the chains
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