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Megamydal Traverse
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
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Routes in Pyramid Peak
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Megamydal Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Northeast Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13 |
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Northwest Ridge |
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Pyramidal Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7300 ft (2212 m), Grade III |
| FA: | variations by Oehrli, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 3,230 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Megamidal Traverse is scenic and stunning with red and gold hues over some of the best mountaineer's mountains Colorado has to offer. This route has slowly gained traction and popularity among experienced peak scramblers, even if they don't know how to spell it.
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Start at Maroon Lake TH and hike to W. Maroon Pass. Expect some avy debris in early summer and wet trails.
The route: expect constant route-finding and scrambling. Try to stay near the ridge where possible as the rest is junk. Some snow might make this a whole lot more enjoyable. Expect consistent low 5th Class and alpine junkery which some may argue exceeds 5.4.
Segment A: W. Maroon Pass to 13,130 (brief Class 3 notches).
Segment B: 13,130 to 13,180 B (brief Class 4).
Segment C: 13,180 B to 13,631 (5.easy. Access the notch via a right side ledge and curl around to just above the saddle. Reachy DC. BAIL SPOT. Escape the notch either left or right and up. A second mini-notch is best passed on the left).
Segment D: 13,631 to Lightning Pyramid (a few 5.easy sections. Chimney and an exposed arete move stick out).
Segment E (start of Pyramidal Traverse): Lightning Pyramid to Thunder Pyramid (exposed 4th Class). Bail spot down left and then over to the White Gully.
Segment F: Thunder Pyramid to Pyramid (5.4, route-finding and climbing crux. Descend to the saddle, weave through gendarmes to another saddle. Describing the route-finding is nearly impossible. Look for ledges left to take you to the crux chimneys on the right side of the ridge. Cruise for awhile, brief Class 4 notch and 5.easy summit block).
Descent: see the NE Ridge description. It is easier to follow going down than up and keep it Class 3. If on route, there is only a single move of 4th Class descender's left side of the green gully.
~16 miles/7300' gain.
Report: 14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo…;parmpeak=250&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include.
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Start at Maroon Lake TH and hike to W. Maroon Pass. Expect some avy debris in early summer and wet trails.
The route: expect constant route-finding and scrambling. Try to stay near the ridge where possible as the rest is junk. Some snow might make this a whole lot more enjoyable. Expect consistent low 5th Class and alpine junkery which some may argue exceeds 5.4.
Segment A: W. Maroon Pass to 13,130 (brief Class 3 notches).
Segment B: 13,130 to 13,180 B (brief Class 4).
Segment C: 13,180 B to 13,631 (5.easy. Access the notch via a right side ledge and curl around to just above the saddle. Reachy DC. BAIL SPOT. Escape the notch either left or right and up. A second mini-notch is best passed on the left).
Segment D: 13,631 to Lightning Pyramid (a few 5.easy sections. Chimney and an exposed arete move stick out).
Segment E (start of Pyramidal Traverse): Lightning Pyramid to Thunder Pyramid (exposed 4th Class). Bail spot down left and then over to the White Gully.
Segment F: Thunder Pyramid to Pyramid (5.4, route-finding and climbing crux. Descend to the saddle, weave through gendarmes to another saddle. Describing the route-finding is nearly impossible. Look for ledges left to take you to the crux chimneys on the right side of the ridge. Cruise for awhile, brief Class 4 notch and 5.easy summit block).
Descent: see the NE Ridge description. It is easier to follow going down than up and keep it Class 3. If on route, there is only a single move of 4th Class descender's left side of the green gully.
~16 miles/7300' gain.
Report: 14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo…;parmpeak=250&cpgm=tripmain&ski=Include.
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