MEGA 

This is a fun route that offers something lengthier than the typical Challenge Buttress fare. Although the 5.9 section is short, you are rewarded with fun and easy climbing above that earns you great views.

Fun route. Esp. the 1st 40 feet or so. We were fine with a 60m rope-about 5 feet left. Thanks for the work.

As of 9/10/07: Please, please, please wear a helmet and climb alert when doing this route. There are still plenty of lurkers (especially a little to the left when getting lowered and on the dirt ledges). Also, the roof/overlap corner has got some friable. All good, just be smart!

As to the "glen u r a freak" plaque...if you only knew :)

But Glen U R A FREAK!! Thanks for all the work you and your crew has done to area. Just climbed this one tonight and really enjoyed it. Couple of fun easy roofs to pull, Lots of climbing and great protection. Nice work and fun climb. Did a top belay, good place for a safety meeting. then rapped with 60 m.

This route should be renamed MEGA-FREAK!

First six bolts are nice ........ Top rope possibilities offer some more difficult options.

Thanks again!

It has come to my attention recently that this climb is very dangerous for people using a short rope...that people could easily rap off the end of the rope. If rapping from the anchors, I believe the rope reaches, especially if one trends toward the little ledge on Whoopsie. It probably is a 31m pitch. It seems everyone's ropes are different lengths than the actual manufacturers specs!
Please be aware that this is a "longer" sport climb. Plan on using a 70m rope or two ropes or extend the chain anchor with long slings if lowering and doing TRs.
If you really are rapping and using a 60m rope, I really doubt there is a need to rap off one bolt as was brought up as a concern to me recently. We climbed it with a 60m and with rope stretch reached the ground with no problem?

Not a bad route. It's pretty dirty in some spots, and the rock formation really seems to send falling rocks outward quite a ways. Take care in where you stand for the belay.

Through bolt 7 - 2 stars, from bolt 7 to the top - -1 star. I felt the top blocky section really detracted from the lower part of the climb. However, the length of the route is a bonus considering the surrounding routes. Glad I did it once, and a good route for 5.8 leaders to jump on.

A great route for testing your 5.9 mettle. The upper section is purely for the view.

Another great new route!
I highly reccomend that the anchors be lowered a couple feet. My 60m didn't quite make it and since it's such a popular area and 5.9 is such a popular grade, I can see bad things happening on a great climb. Luckily the fall would only be a couple feet, but still....

This is a fun one..and has some good moves low followed by the good scenery of Stairs Gulch. I think I used 15 draws, so bring plenty of draws, and a 60 m will barely reach with some careful lowering, so be cautious of the rope ends. We used a 70 and were fine.

I think the crux for me was getting past the bulge at the third clip. Finding good feet and thin crimps seemed to be key. The roof was slightly easier - very fun. The upper section was super juggy 5.easy, but still vertical enough to keep me happy. Solid 2 stars.

6/6/10 there are still plenty of very big loose blocks up top. Wear a helmet and be aware of what you're sending down! This is a good climb for the new leader - makes the gym look runout.

Very fun route. Especially the first 8 bolts. Very well protected, and see's good shade in the afternoon.
Tie knots in the end of your rope before you rap! My newish 60m rope came up short by about 7 feet.

Whats the name of the route just to the left of this one? I dont think it was in the book...

The first 4/5 bolts of this climb have some really interesting moves. Once you get over the roof the climbing drops to 5.5/5.6. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.

60m 10.1mm rope was just long enough to not require down climbing