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MEGA 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: G.Kaplan & J.Garrett 8/12/07
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 5,295
Submitted By: glen kaplan on Aug 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Lei making it graceful on the 'hard' part of MEGA ...

Description 

Yes...this is a newly equipped and established line that 'finishes' someone's earlier efforts--therefore the FA may belong to them (sans bolts)--however, whoever they were probably followed weaknesses to the right, evidenced by two old and rusty pins. I didn't speak with anyone who really knows? The consensus was "???, yeah, I know that bolt your talking about...doesn't go anywhere...doesn't look worth it...haven't ever seen anyone over there...etc." (I've since talked to a few folks who have ventured around here and they've all said it wasn't really worthwhile, rotten and thin...kind of easy to get lost...)

This 'new' line is obvious and is very well-protected, travelling up through the blocky roof/overlap from the old existing bolt (bolt #2), to the smooth section above. Continue travelling up, past some loose looking but surprisingly solid ledges, and up, and up...

Thanx JG!


Location 

15' left (south) of Coral Bells
10' right (north) of Whoopsy


Protection 

13 bolts plus chain anchors (Watch the ends of your rope!!!)



Photos of MEGA Slideshow Add Photo
and Mr. Garrett getting his sport on @ clip #5, right below the roof/overlap on MEGA
and Mr. Garrett getting his sport on @ clip @POUND...
Photo topo for the new route.  Long route with lots of clips...
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for the new route. Long route with lot...
Mrs. Garrett at clip #12, MEGA...
Mrs. Garrett at clip #12, MEGA...
gentleman on the streets, <br />freak in the sheets!!!!
gentleman on the streets,
freak in the sheets!!!!
Made a topo for Mega and Worthy Whoopsie
BETA PHOTO: Made a topo for Mega and Worthy Whoopsie
Comments on MEGA Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 28, 2014
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun route that offers something lengthier than the typical Challenge Buttress fare. Although the 5.9 section is short, you are rewarded with fun and easy climbing above that earns you great views.

By zoso
Aug 31, 2007

Fun route. Esp. the 1st 40 feet or so. We were fine with a 60m rope-about 5 feet left. Thanks for the work.

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2007

As of 9/10/07: Please, please, please wear a helmet and climb alert when doing this route. There are still plenty of lurkers (especially a little to the left when getting lowered and on the dirt ledges). Also, the roof/overlap corner has got some friable. All good, just be smart!

As to the "glen u r a freak" plaque...if you only knew :)

By Talia
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2007

But Glen U R A FREAK!! Thanks for all the work you and your crew has done to area. Just climbed this one tonight and really enjoyed it. Couple of fun easy roofs to pull, Lots of climbing and great protection. Nice work and fun climb. Did a top belay, good place for a safety meeting. then rapped with 60 m.

By Spinalflow
From: Sugarhouse , Utah
Sep 14, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This route should be renamed MEGA-FREAK!

First six bolts are nice ........ Top rope possibilities offer some more difficult options.

Thanks again!

By James Garrett
Sep 29, 2007

It has come to my attention recently that this climb is very dangerous for people using a short rope...that people could easily rap off the end of the rope. If rapping from the anchors, I believe the rope reaches, especially if one trends toward the little ledge on Whoopsie. It probably is a 31m pitch. It seems everyone's ropes are different lengths than the actual manufacturers specs!
Please be aware that this is a "longer" sport climb. Plan on using a 70m rope or two ropes or extend the chain anchor with long slings if lowering and doing TRs.
If you really are rapping and using a 60m rope, I really doubt there is a need to rap off one bolt as was brought up as a concern to me recently. We climbed it with a 60m and with rope stretch reached the ground with no problem?

By Michael MacFadden
Apr 29, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not a bad route. It's pretty dirty in some spots, and the rock formation really seems to send falling rocks outward quite a ways. Take care in where you stand for the belay.

By Leroy Fielding
May 26, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Through bolt 7 - 2 stars, from bolt 7 to the top - -1 star. I felt the top blocky section really detracted from the lower part of the climb. However, the length of the route is a bonus considering the surrounding routes. Glad I did it once, and a good route for 5.8 leaders to jump on.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 3, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A great route for testing your 5.9 mettle. The upper section is purely for the view.

By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Apr 24, 2009

Another great new route!
I highly reccomend that the anchors be lowered a couple feet. My 60m didn't quite make it and since it's such a popular area and 5.9 is such a popular grade, I can see bad things happening on a great climb. Luckily the fall would only be a couple feet, but still....

By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun one..and has some good moves low followed by the good scenery of Stairs Gulch. I think I used 15 draws, so bring plenty of draws, and a 60 m will barely reach with some careful lowering, so be cautious of the rope ends. We used a 70 and were fine.

By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
Apr 24, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think the crux for me was getting past the bulge at the third clip. Finding good feet and thin crimps seemed to be key. The roof was slightly easier - very fun. The upper section was super juggy 5.easy, but still vertical enough to keep me happy. Solid 2 stars.

By Mark Parrett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

6/6/10 there are still plenty of very big loose blocks up top. Wear a helmet and be aware of what you're sending down! This is a good climb for the new leader - makes the gym look runout.

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 29, 2010

Very fun route. Especially the first 8 bolts. Very well protected, and see's good shade in the afternoon.
Tie knots in the end of your rope before you rap! My newish 60m rope came up short by about 7 feet.

Whats the name of the route just to the left of this one? I dont think it was in the book...

By John.Brimley
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The first 4/5 bolts of this climb have some really interesting moves. Once you get over the roof the climbing drops to 5.5/5.6. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.

By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Nov 5, 2012

60m 10.1mm rope was just long enough to not require down climbing

By Dashclimbsrocks
From: Orem, UT
Jun 2, 2013

Rule #1 if you use a 60m on this route, tie a freaking knot in the end of the rope. a 60m is just barely long enough.
Route is OVER protected. Should have ended three or 4 bolts early.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great addition to the area. 5.9 up to the roof, then eases to 5.7ish climbing the rest of the way. Amazing views, great length!

By Tara Hansen
May 28, 2014

fun and long route! There were 2 bolts that were a little awkward to get to so I decided to run it out near the top. bring your 70m!