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Mega Magic 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Horst '88
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Aug 28, 2007
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Description 

This route is named after the "mega" climbing shoe that gave the climbers of the time enough edging power to actually pull the super thin edging moves that are required to send this thin face line.

Start as for Angel's Arete the move up and right on some very thin moves for about 15ft. After you make the crux clip at the second bolt the rest of the climb goes at 5.10+.

This is a good one to practice on TR, get dialed and then lead.


Location 

One route right of Angle's Arete.


Protection 

4 Bolts to anchor. Getting to the 2nd bolt is mighty hard.



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