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Northwest Face
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Mega Bleam 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Spencer, 1985
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Sean H on May 24, 2012

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Alpine sport wanker at the 5th bolt on Mega Bleam.

Description 

Tightly bolted route by Tuolumne standards. Some guidebooks describe the 5.8 climbing to the first bolt as runout, but it's really pretty mellow.

There is a second pitch with no pro that did not look that exciting.

P1: Climb mostly straight up, trending slightly left toward the first bolt.

One could clip the first bolt with a longer runner to completely eliminate drag, but it's not bad either way.

From the first bolt, climb on a diagonal mostly up and to the left for 6 more bolts.

At this point, there is a short section of slab Supertopo describes as 5.7, which this climber thought felt considerably easier, especially for the Meadows. You could take up some small gear, around green/yellow Alien sized, however if you haven't had trouble up to here, you most likely don't need it to get to the chains.

In general, whenever difficulty is encountered, the best course of action is to move further left, and then up. Positive holds abound.

Descent: Not sure on route length, but rapping on a single 60m rope will easily get you back to the belay ledge.

Location 

Easiest approach would be to climb Beginner's Route and head right. Could also climb one of the Water Cracks (or similar) and scramble toward the NW. Belay is at a ledge with a bush.

Protection 

7 draws, plus something for the anchors (2 bolts.)


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By Angie Langevin
Mar 6, 2013

Wierd route. Best part was the 5.4 chimney on P1! The bolted section was ok, but had crumbly friable edges for feet. Second pitch was 5.7 climbing but with very little gear.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Not sure where the anchors are. Our route had an extra bolt or two than indicated on the Falcon topo and a long run out to a ledge with no anchors.