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Medusa Tree 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Chick Holtkamp - 1984
Page Views: 1,390
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 7, 2007

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Moving into the crux on Medusa Tree. Photo by Wil...


A real Jamestown classic, Medusa Tree has great protection and thought-provoking moves in places. A must-do for the grade, and a good choice if you're a leader ready to move into 5.9 territory.

Starting on a somewhat slabby face (slightly runout, like many starts at Jamestown), move up through cracks to a big horizontal flake. Work left on the flake and up to a bulge. At this point, you have a choice of using the easier (5.9) vertical crack on the left to pull the bulge, or the considerably more difficult thin seam on the right (5.11 variation). After negotiating this crux, move up and right on easy ground to the anchors.


Starts about 50' right of a huge, blocky pillar, not far left of King of Bling. Rap from the anchors.


Cams and passive pro in the small to medium range. Bolted anchors.

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