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Kopfuber S 
Medo S 

Medo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jun 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The route goes up the right angling feature straig...

Description 

This is the easiest way to the top of this wall, so it was the obvious choice for us. The guide book shows the route starting on a ledge 100 feet up. Well it's only about 5.4, but there are no bolts. Everything is bolted in Europe right? We won't need any gear. Anyway, you might want a little for this section... Pitch 2) heads up a right angling ramp above that ledge. 5.7ish belay after 100 feet. Picth 3) Continue up the ramp until it ends then work your way up some steeper rock to a big tree ledge. Pitch 4) The last steep headwall to the top. Steep, but with good cracks and edges. Enjoy the view. You can see Italy, Croatia and the Adriatic! Rap...

Location 

Follow the main trail to the back wall of the amphitheater. Up and right from the giant cave look for the starting ledge about 100 feet up.

Protection 

All bolted except the easy approach pitch. There is a 7c that gets you to the start, but if you can climb that hard you probably won't be doing this route.

There is a bolted rappel route just left of the finish. From the very top, there is one short rappel, then 3 30m rappels which bring you back to the starting ledge, and then one more 30 m to the ground. Be really careful on the third rappel. It is free, and really hard to get to the anchor. If you have an extra rope it would be nice to skip over this one...


Photos of Medo Slideshow Add Photo
following the bolts up the easy ramp
following the bolts up the easy ramp

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By atfarley
From: Bellingham, WA
Nov 29, 2010

what guide book did you use? what season did you climb in, how were the temps?
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jul 6, 2011

sorry, I just noticed your comment...

I think we were there in August. Pretty hot, but you can find shade. I think you can climb year round here...

The guide book we had was "Climbing without frontiers" by Sidarta Guides. It covers areas along the coast from Italy down to the Istrian Peninsula in Croatia. There is a guide that covers all of Slovenia that may be better...
By James Garrett
Aug 16, 2011

yes, definitely concur with the warning about the 3rd (or fourth) rappel. Oddly placed, this could leave you hanging and reaching for your prussicks unless you carry or climb with two ropes here. Great multi pitch climbing in a sea of 5.14s. Apparently more than 65 plus routes harder than 8c....wow.
Do it in the morning before this south facing route warms up. Osp is so cool and the people extraordinary. What a great and welcoming community of people in this little town.