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Medlicott Dome

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Medlicott Dome East End 
Medlicott Dome, Center 
Medlicott Dome, Right 
Sticks and Stones 

Medlicott Dome 


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Location: 37.85618, -119.42388 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 69,554
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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A golden granite face
2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.


Getting There 

Drive to Tuolumne, park, turn south, hike. See Reed & Falkenstein's guide.


Climbing Season


26 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome:
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Medlicott Dome East End
Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome East End
Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome East End
Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome East End
The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome East End
Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome East End
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Big Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome East End
Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome East End
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome
Shipoopi! Topo

Shipoopi! 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Right
This is a great route that offers awesome, well-bolted knob climbing, some fun roof-pulling, and a great view of the Bachar-Yerian. All anchors are bolted.P1: 5.11aStart in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)P2: 5.11dThis ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Medlicott Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Medlicott Dome. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Medlicott Dome.
Photo by Blitzo.
Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
summit of Medlicott Dome
summit of Medlicott Dome
That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
Comments on Medlicott Dome Add Comment
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By Greg Barnes
Jun 10, 2012

Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Here's the sign at the parking area:

Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12