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Medlicott Dome

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Medlicott Dome East End 
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Medlicott Dome, Right 
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Medlicott Dome 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.85618, -119.42388 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,409
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006
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A golden granite face
2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Perhaps the best crag in Tuolumne with a high concentration of great climbs.


Getting There 

Drive to Tuolumne, park, turn south, hike. See Reed & Falkenstein's guide.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome:
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Medlicott Dome East End
Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Medlicott Dome East End
Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Medlicott Dome East End
Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Medlicott Dome East End
The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome East End
Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome East End
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Ciebola   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Medlicott Dome, Right
15 Minutes of Fame   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Big Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Medlicott Dome East End
Bachar-Yerian   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Medlicott Dome, Right
Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   Medlicott Dome East End
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome
Wailing Wall. The route begins at the shaded roof in the bottom left of the photo and trends to the right, pulling the roof crack in the upper right of the photo.  Topo overlay shows the first three pitches as we climbed the route.   <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano

Wailing Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome East End
Wailing Wall ascends the obvious and beautiful golden buttress at the left side of Medlicott Dome (this buttress forms the corner of The Yawn). The first pitch is a bit notorious as well -- it tackles the massive roof just left of the Yawn. But the upper pitches are excellent and not to be missed!P1: Climb the roof. Crazy, unlikely stemming! Belay at a bolted anchor. 5.11d, 90'.P2: Head up a steep crack in the corner. Eventually the angle eases off as do the difficulties. Stretch the ro...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Medlicott Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Medlicott Dome. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Medlicott Dome.
Photo by Blitzo.
Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
Tom Rogers on p2 of Ciebola
That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
That's me on the final traverse on Ciebola
summit of Medlicott Dome
summit of Medlicott Dome
That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
That's me leading p2 on Shagadellic
A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
A rescue(I think) going down on Bacher-Yerian
Comments on Medlicott Dome Add Comment
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By Greg Barnes
Jun 10, 2012

Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Here's the sign at the parking area:

Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12