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DescriptionA super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics. Getting ThereFrom the huge parking area across from low profile Dome, walk through the bog in to the woods till you hit a trail. Take this to the east (left) keeping an eye out for trail/cairn on the right after 1/4 mile. Walk this steep trail up hill to the wall. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome East End:
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet
Shagadelic 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet
Goldmember 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Super Chicken 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
The Yawn 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Excellent Smithers 5.10a Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Scorpion 5.11b Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Wailing Wall 5.11d Trad, 4 pitches, 700 feet
Featured Route For Medlicott Dome East End
Super Chicken 5.9 CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome East End
P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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