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Medlicott Dome East End
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Select Route:
Donuts 
Excellent Smithers 
Goldmember 
Lighter Side, The 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) 
Scorpion 
Shagadelic 
Super Chicken 
Wailing Wall 
Yawn, The 

Medlicott Dome East End 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Page Views: 12,762. Good page?   
Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Jose following pitch 2

Description 

A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.


Getting There 

From the huge parking area across from low profile Dome, walk through the bog in to the woods till you hit a trail. Take this to the east (left) keeping an eye out for trail/cairn on the right after 1/4 mile. Walk this steep trail up hill to the wall.
Descent: walk off SW and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome East End:
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Shagadelic   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   
Goldmember   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Super Chicken   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
The Yawn   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Excellent Smithers   5.10a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Scorpion   5.11b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Wailing Wall   5.11d     Trad, 4 pitches, 700 feet   
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome East End

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome East End
Brian leading the grungy approach pitch to Super Chicken.  The Super hands pitch is above him.

Super Chicken 5.9  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome East End
P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Comments on Medlicott Dome East End Add Comment
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By pkemp
Aug 7, 2008

I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info.

By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Aug 19, 2008

That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.