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 ADVANCED
Medlicott Dome East End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Donuts TR 
Excellent Smithers S 
Goldmember T 
Lighter Side, The S 
Loco Yokel T 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 
Scorpion T 
Shagadelic T 
Super Chicken T 
Wailing Wall T 
Yawn, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Medlicott Dome East End 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Page Views: 20,648
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.


Getting There 

From the huge parking area across from low profile Dome, walk through the bog in to the woods till you hit a trail. Take this to the east (left) keeping an eye out for trail/cairn on the right after 1/4 mile. Walk this steep trail up hill to the wall.
Descent: walk off SW and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.


Climbing Season


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medlicott Dome East End:
Shagadelic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Goldmember   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Super Chicken   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
The Yawn   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Excellent Smithers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Scorpion   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Wailing Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Classics in Medlicott Dome East End

Featured Route For Medlicott Dome East End
Camille following Goldmember.  Note how the cool dike goes all the way to the ground!

Goldmember 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome East End
Goldmember is an excellent slab route halfway up Medlicott Dome. We accessed it by climbing Piss Easy, but other approach options may exist.Also, the supertopo guide notes that Jake Whittaker put it up freesolo (!) and that it was later bolted by a party unaware of the fact it had been climbed. The FA expressly gave permission for the bolts to remain, I'd like to thank him for that generousity, so that mere mortals like myself could enjoy this excellent route.From the large belay ledge atop p2...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Medlicott Dome East End Add Comment
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By pkemp
Aug 7, 2008

I am wondering what the climb to the left of Super Chicken is called? (100' dihedral/crack, with 3 bolts, ~5.10)
Thanks for any info.

By Rob Dillon
Aug 19, 2008

That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.