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Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Blair (overview)
> Lower Blair I,…
> Lower Blair II
Medium Cool
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 35
votes
Routes in Lower Blair II
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A Thing of Beauty T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Body Pump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Deadman's Glove T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Edge of Sanity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Enterprising Curiosity aka Bloody Scab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hobbit Logic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Little Dude S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Medium Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Solo for Swallows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wing, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob Scarpelli and Kip Spence |
| Page Views: | 4,443 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on May 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Climb fingers to an offwidth pod, then to good hands. Reach a ledge and climb 10 feet up a left-facing dihedral to the anchor. Enjoyable climb. Medium Cool starts on the same ledge as Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows, be careful on the ledge, and the belayer should probably anchor in. Kip Spence is the father of famous trial laywer Gerry Spence.
Location
This is between Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows. Take the trail from the blair parking lot around to the Northwest side of Blair II. Climb up the gully from the notch between Blair II and the Vulture (3/4th) to reach the ledge. Medium Cool is the middle climb on this ledge, going straight up with an obvious pod about 15 feet up.
Protection
1 set of stoppers, Cams from finger size (green Alien/#0.3 Camalot) to #3 Camalot. Doubles in hand size pieces. You could take a #6 for the pod, but it would make the climbing more difficult, better just to place below and above the pod. The top of the climb has poor quality rock, but easy climbing. Save one #3 Camalot or equivalent for this section. Belayer should build an anchor with hand-size pieces in the horizontal or small stoppers/cams in the crack.
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