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Medicine Wall

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Medicine Wall  


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Elevation: 960'
Page Views: 21,383
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mattm on May 20, 2011
Forecast:
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
88° | 65°
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Alexandra Ballester deciphers Honeycomb.

Private Property - CLOSED MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Limestone Cliffs up to ~25m. The rock varies from excellent blue rock to blocky choss. Be cautious pulling on anything that seems loose, it probably is.

North facing so it does get SOME shade in the summer but the sun sneaks in when it's high in the sky. It can be COLD in the winter but the sun is easy to walk to to warm up. Each of the areas are really all part of one semicontinuous cliff band. Climbers would refer to different distinct areas as a "wall" and the practice stuck. Think of each "wall" area in the Euro sense of sectors on a larger wall.

Star Ratings are based on climbs ONLY at Med Wall. Don't think for a second that a 4 star route here will rank up there with a 4 Star route in the Valley or Smith Rock.

Getting There 

THIS AREA IS CURRENTLY CLOSED. ACCESS IS BEING WORKED ON. THIS WILL BE UPDATED WHEN THINGS CHANGE

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.6 miles from here

37 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',8],['5.9',4],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medicine Wall:
Bermuda Triangles   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   Old Testament Wall
Same Day Surgery   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Malpractice Wall
Texas Caterpillar   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   New Testament Wall
Rock-Ectomy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   Malpractice Wall
Sleep Deprivation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Old Testament Wall
Two Cracked Teeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buda Belly Wall
Crossover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Old Testament Wall
Unnecessary Procedure   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Malpractice Wall
Adventures in Purulent Discharge   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   New Testament Wall
Honeycomb   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Metro Wall
Cute without the E   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   New Testament Wall
Here's to Swimming With Bow Legged Women   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   New Testament Wall
Browse More Classics in Medicine Wall

Featured Route For Medicine Wall
Alexandra Ballester deciphers Honeycomb.

Honeycomb 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  TX : Medicine Wall : Metro Wall
Originally a TR setup by unknown parties and locally known as "Honeycomb". Lead bolts were added later as was a different name - aka "Loopy Likes it on Top" ...Head up the lower angle slab past 2 bolts. At the base of the headwall, clip a bolt on the face to protect you making the clip above the lip. Steep climbing up and left through SWISS CHEESE Rock leads up and right to a Crack before toping out with some face climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on Medicine Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By engineer1984
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 27, 2012
Is this area still open for climbing?
By Jason Mann 1
From: Austin, Texas
Feb 13, 2015
This area is closed. Two people were killed in an accident recently. The landowner has made it clear that all trespassers will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. Please do not try to access this property. Access is being worked on by Central Texas Mountaineers and the Access Fund, and we are hopeful that there will be a resolution in the future that will allow for open access for climbing. Not honoring closures hurts access and the climbing community in general, not to mention the fact that it is dangerous and illegal to trespass on private property. If you are interested in more information feel free to contact me directly. Jason Mann Access Coordinator, Central Texas Mountaineers. jasonpmann@hotmail.com
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