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Medicine Wall
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Buda Belly Wall 
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Medicine Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 960'
Page Views: 14,152. Good page? (9 likes)   
Administrators: Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: mattm on May 20, 2011

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CURRENTLY CLOSED - DO NOT TRESPASS MORE INFO >>>


Judge Pulling the Bulge.

Description 

Limestone Cliffs up to ~25m. The rock varies from excellent blue rock to blocky choss. Be cautious pulling on anything that seems loose, it probably is.

North facing so it does get SOME shade in the summer but the sun sneaks in when it's high in the sky. It can be COLD in the winter but the sun is easy to walk to to warm up. Each of the areas are really all part of one semicontinuous cliff band. Climbers would refer to different distinct areas as a "wall" and the practice stuck. Think of each "wall" area in the Euro sense of sectors on a larger wall.

Star Ratings are based on climbs ONLY at Med Wall. Don't think for a second that a 4 star route here will rank up there with a 4 Star route in the Valley or Smith Rock.


Getting There 

THIS AREA IS CURRENTLY CLOSED. ACCESS IS BEING WORKED ON. THIS WILL BE UPDATED WHEN THINGS CHANGE


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Medicine Wall:
Old 5.7   5.8     Sport, 60 feet   Old Testament Wall
Bermuda Triangles   5.8     Sport, 70 feet   Old Testament Wall
Same Day Surgery   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Malpractice Wall
Texas Caterpillar   5.8     Sport, 50 feet   New Testament Wall
Defective Implant   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Malpractice Wall
Two Cracked Teeth   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Buda Belly Wall
Rock-Ectomy   5.9     Sport, 80 feet   Malpractice Wall
Sleep Deprivation   5.9     Sport, 50 feet   Old Testament Wall
Crossover   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Old Testament Wall
Unnecessary Procedure   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Malpractice Wall
Adventures in Purulent Discharge   5.10a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   New Testament Wall
Breezy   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Buda Belly Wall
Estilio de Tigre    5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Metro Wall
Honeycomb   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Metro Wall
Dr Joe Joe   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   New Testament Wall
Fear of Falling   5.11b     Sport, 50 feet   Buda Belly Wall
Cute without the E   5.11b     Sport, 50 feet   New Testament Wall
Here's to Swimming With Bow Legged Women   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   New Testament Wall
Browse More Classics in Medicine Wall

Featured Route For Medicine Wall
Gabe getting into the business on Cute without the E

Cute without the E 5.11b  TX : Medicine Wall : New Testament Wall
Probably the 2nd best line on NT after Bow Legged. MIGHT even be the best. Head up past the cave and into a shallow groove past 2 bolts before pulling onto the grassy ledge. (Some gardening should clean that ledge up). Pull past the bulge, onto easier ground heading up and slightly right towards the base of the overhanging, left facing corner. Climb up the corner on edges and pockets before reaching a small crack near the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX


Comments on Medicine Wall Add Comment
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By mattm
From: TX
May 20, 2011

There's a small but growing group of climbers in SA. Find us on Facebook - San Antonio Rock Climbers

By engineer1984
From: Houston,TX
Jul 27, 2012

Is this area still open for climbing?

By Dylan Carey
From: TX
Oct 5, 2012

Yes this area is still open, you can pm me for beta

By mattm
From: TX
Mar 26, 2013

Currently Closed to Climbing (3/25/13) - Access is being worked on.