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 ADVANCED
Elysian Buttress
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Elysian Buttress Original Route T 
Mechanical Persistence S 
Unemployment Line, The S 

Mechanical Persistence 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D. Cole, P. Rullman
Page Views: 2,843
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Elysian Buttress

Description 

Mechanical Persistence is a great four pitch sport route up the Elysian Buttress. Expect fun and engaging climbing. This route makes for a great link-up with the Original Route.

Pitch 1 (5.10a) - The start for this route is located up and right from the Elysian's Original Route and down and left from the descent gully. Climb straight up vertical face past a few bolts then up a featured slab with more fixed pro. Move left at the top of this pitch to a two bolt anchor. (~90')

Pitch 2 (5.9) - Move up and left from anchors climbing over broken terrain to another two bolt anchor. (~90')

Pitch 3 (5.11a/b) - Move up and left off the belay and climb thin crimps past many bolts to a wonderful thank god hold. Finish on easy slab to nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (~100')

Pitch 4 (5.10b) - Straight up off belay to the top of the formation. (~85')

Descent - Rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the top of pitch 3. From this anchor rap 70' down and right to a large ledge. Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs. It is possible to rappel down the entire route. However it is nearly impossible to pull the ropes from the anchor atop pitch #3.

Location 

During the approach aim for the largest lefthand buttress. Mechanical Persistence is the bolted line left of the descent gully.

Protection 

12-14 draws
Gear for anchors


Photos of Mechanical Persistence Slideshow Add Photo
Mechanical Persistence Start
BETA PHOTO: Mechanical Persistence Start
Mechanical Persistence
BETA PHOTO: Mechanical Persistence
Mechanical Persistence
BETA PHOTO: Mechanical Persistence
Descent gully, lots of loose rock.
BETA PHOTO: Descent gully, lots of loose rock.

Comments on Mechanical Persistence Add Comment
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By s.crabtree
Jan 31, 2009

fun climb! gets sun all day; just did this today in t-shirts, mid-winter.
there is an unsettling section of pitch 2 where the climb ascends a giant hollow flake for a couple bolts - hollow enough that my belayer could hear the resounding thud from about 30' below when i knocked on it. it feels like it's about to exfoliate out from under you; i was rather relieved to clip the bolt right above it. (there's another similar section on pitch 4.) but don't let this deter you, it's a great line in a stunning location.
By Jerimiah Gentry
From: Denver, CO
Apr 30, 2009

Did this with Matheuw Brown in the cold cold winter! Very fun but when it's an overcast winter day dacite feels like cast iron! The route feels wild and remote, even though your clipping bolts and I think you can see the mall from up there...
By Paul Davidson
May 1, 2009

Pull that flake off and it really will become wild and remote.

Always been surprised more hasn't been done out on this rock!
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 2, 2011

FA: D. Cole and P. Rullman Fall 2002
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 5, 2012

I really enjoyed this route and the hike in! Super classic for Flag multipitch. Just a great day out.
By Nick Dolhyj
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 11, 2013

just did this route yesterday/last night. between the start of pitch 1 and the descent gully there is one non-camouflaged bolt set pretty high up on the face. for a second i thought this was the start of the route but luckily took a quick peek farther left and found the actual start. anyone know what the deal is with this bolt?
By DesertRat
Oct 4, 2014

Outstanding route! I was expecting the first pitch to be loose, but it was solid and super fun. The entire climb is very well protected.

Fingertips were very tender by the last pitch, which wasn't the gimme I thought it might be.