Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Blank Check Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Squirrel, a Mole, and a Chicken S 
Meatballs in Space S 

Meatballs in Space 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Bol, EVD
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 625
Submitted By: tbol on Aug 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Very European.... Should be easy to find the rout...

Description 

Get ready to fly like a meatball! Clip the first bolt, the courtesy bolt, and prepare for a battle to the anchor. The crux comes after making a hard clip at the fourth bolt. Master a sequence left of the fourth and fifth bolts to gain a marginal rest and hand traverse on positive holds. If you're not flying high like a pastafarian yet, muster all your marinara and continue up, staying a little farther right of the upper corner than might be desirable. A traverse back left from the corner and a few hard moves guard the anchor. There is a high possibility for logging a little air time on this one. It is best to lead it. Toproping it is a little problematic due to the overhanging and traversing nature of the route. We figured it was on the upper end of 5.12, a challenging send no doubt.

Location 

It is on Blank Check Wall, a few routes right of 'Transplant' and 2 routes left of 'A Squirrel, a Mole, and a Chicken.'

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks and cord (it might be a good idea to take a wrench and tighten loose hangers if you notice them, it seems like they take some time to 'settle in' on the limestone, and it seems like every route at the crag has at least one spinner).


Photos of Meatballs in Space Slideshow Add Photo
The hanging rope reveals how steep the climbing is.
The hanging rope reveals how steep the climbing is...

Comments on Meatballs in Space Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -