Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | Drew Bedford 1988 |
Page Views: | 8,532 total · 45/month |
Shared By: | Past User on Oct 12, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The boulder crux is the crimpy and powerful bulge about 2/3rds of the way up, although holding it together on the very technical micro featured upper slab is no easy feat. This climb was rated 12b/c in the Ruckman guidebook, but it seems a few holds have broken and now the grade is suggested at 12d (very dependent on temperature!- for unbelievable friction climb it in the shade at 39 degrees!). As the story goes, after the Snowbird competition in 1988, Marc Le Menestrel onsighted this route* and proclaimed it as one of the best he had ever climbed. Impressive onsight! Sadly, to the disgust of all present, Didier Raboutou fell during his onsight attempt, hung his head, and returned to Euroland. (*as verified by the Mayor of LCC)
Location
This awesome face climb looms above the standard anchors of The Green Adjective. Climb the Green A and then scramble/ climb about 30 feet higher up to the right to another set of bolted anchors-this is the start of the route. The first bolt is up past the initial short steep section and on the slab. A series of rappels puts you back at the porch of the Green A.
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