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(5) Shakespeare Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As You Like It T 
Azog T 
Measure for Measure S 
Midsummer Night's Scream T 
Much Ado About Nothing T 
Ophelia T 
Othello T 
Puck T 
Sauron T 
Sweet Sorrow S 
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 
Unknown T 
Yost In Space S 

Measure for Measure 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brett Yost
Season: The Lower Gorge is so good
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Joel Sprenger on Nov 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: A not so good picture of Measure for Measure. I wi...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The only bolted line on the Shakespeare Cliff. A fun start pulling over the roof gets harder as you climb up. The route starts working the left side of the arete but works both sides as the column narrows at the top. The crux comes at the 2nd to last bolt where blank arete slapping and lousy feet lead to a desperate clipping hold. Looking for others input so we can get this route information more accurate

Location 

I believe this is the only bolted route on the Shakespeare Cliff. Chalk on both sides of the arete make this climb look hard.

Protection 

Bolts the whole way up. Shares anchors with Much to Do about Nothing.


Photos of Measure for Measure Slideshow Add Photo
Measure for Madness, Shakespeare Wall, Lower Gorge...
Measure for Madness, Shakespeare Wall, Lower Gorge...
Measure For Madness, 5.11d, Shakespeare Wall, Lowe...
Measure For Madness, 5.11d, Shakespeare Wall, Lowe...

Comments on Measure for Measure Add Comment
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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Dec 29, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Its called Measure For Madness in the Watts guide. The Watts guide gives it .11d, which I think is accurate as long as your arms are long enough to span between both aretes of the column.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Actually, I named this route "Measure for Measure" to stay with the Shakespeare name theme. Not sure where the mix up happened but it would be nice to get it fixed for future editions of the guide.

I think it is 3.5 stars, not quite up to 4 stars but pretty close.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 1, 2015

Changed the name to the correct FA name.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 13, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Interesting that the name is wrong in the Watts guide.

This is no longer the only sport route on Shakespeare wall. To the left of this line is Yost In Space (11a) and over on the right side of the wall is Sweet Sorrow (~11c).

You can also now continue on a fully bolted adventure by exiting out the top of the column to the left and clipping the new bolt on Yost In Space before pulling the roof. Doesn't change the overall grade of the climb as the crux is still on the top section of the column, and you get a full no-hands after the column before attacking the roof.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 17, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Just got some more history on this route - it was toproped by Brett Yost and Ted Stahl. Brett didn't want it bolted, but Ted was very psyched on it, so Brett relented and Ted was the one to bolt it and lead it.
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