|Whitney Portal Buttress
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b A1 [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Uphus and Bill Cramer, July 1994|
|Page Views: ||813|
|Submitted By: ||BCramer on Feb 2, 2007|
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BETA PHOTO: Mean Streak, Whitney Portal Buttress, Whitney Port...
Mean Streak is a 10 pitch route up far the right margin of the buttress. Great rock and a variety of stellar cracks and thin face climbing make this a worthy adventure for the experienced climber. Begin to right of the highest pine at base of wall, up right from Clouds route. Look up and left for 1st bolt leading to small roofs, three more bolts lead to a ledge (a bit runout). The route is named for the second pitch; a long left leaning, left facing corner with a dark streak running down through it (bolts on this pitch added by some wankers after we did the FA! The crack takes gear all the way). Route finding and a short aid pitch (hooks in holes) above this leads to a horizontal edge left to a steep, thin right facing crack. Traverse back right across a steep face (bolts)and and then up more cracks. At the top of the 7th pitch two options present themselves. The recommended route continues straight up the wall on steep looking cracks and face. The arete out right (look for bolt), while faster, is not much fun. Rap the route (two ropes) or walk off.
Decent standard rack should do. Draws, micro to large stoppers, smallest TCUs to #3 camalot, hooks for 5/16' holes.
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal, Whitney Portal Buttress, Mean Stre...