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 ADVANCED
Mean Mistreater Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beautiful Flyaway T 
Crab Corner T 
Crab Legs T 
Crab Salad T 
Feelin' Fertile S 
Irrational Inquirer T 
Mean Mistreater T,S 
Pegasus T 
Rich and Dave Route T 
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 

Mean Mistreater 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,552
Submitted By: Wes Turner on Apr 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Mean Mistreater

Description 

This route is located in the middle of the Mean Mistreater formation. --Starts with a bolt up high and goes straight up face to a finger crack at top of P1 to chain anchors. --P2 head out right and then up to bolt 1 then back left to bolt 2. A fall at the crux could be a bad one because of the ledge. Tricky sequence on this crux so watch the fall. then up crack to short face and chain anchors. --This is an excellent climb in a beautiful setting. A true Mt. Lemmon classic. What a blast!!

Protection 

mixed route(around 4 or 5 bolts).. 2 pitches with chain anchorsquickdraws, nuts, cams to #1 (including the tiny stuff)


Photos of Mean Mistreater Slideshow Add Photo
Emily at the start.  Note that if you don't sling ...
Emily at the start. Note that if you don't sling ...

Comments on Mean Mistreater Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 19, 2013
By jbak
Feb 13, 2006

4 or 5 bolts ? Did some get added ? I only remember 2, one on each pitch.
By dcohn
Oct 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing route. There are 2 bolts on each pitch. The crux is bolt protected but I don't think it would be that hard to protect using the crack.
By Mark and Stacy Egan
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I placed a number 0 TCU in the bottom side of the vertical crack at the crux on pitch 2 to avoid hitting the ledge if I pitched off. The TCU was about 2 feet above the bolt. Since I didn't fall, the placement went untested. --Mark
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 14, 2007

It isn't a sport route. If you are short 5'6" or less getting to the crack above the bolt is easier if you take an indirect (farther from the bolt) path. The crack mentioned in the previous comment takes a bomber stopper too.
By Joe Lee
From: Las Vegas
Apr 24, 2010

Did this climb as one pitch. As for gear, I brought a full rack but didn't place anything bigger than a purple C4. Next time I'll probably bring doubles to a green Camalot.
By Paul Davidson
Apr 27, 2010

"..Not sure why it was set up to be done in two. ... rope drag ... I'll bring a four foot sling"

Seems like you answered your own question.
FAers don't have the beta and looking up at this with the existing rope drag would make most leaders (back then at least) decide it's a good spot to belay.
By John Steiger
Sep 19, 2010

The FA (1976) was Steve Grossman, who I think was a senior at Tucson High School at the time, and Rich Thompson, whose boundless enthusiasm for climbing inspired a generation of Tucson climbers. There is a direct finish, which leaves the finishing crack of the original line maybe 25-30 feet before the top, and climbs the headwall to the right – worth doing, 5.10b (FA John Sherman – yes, the Verm, 1984). There was also at one time a 5.10 R/X variation that went straight up from the belay bolts atop the first pitch to the second bolt on the second pitch, first climbed by Charlie Rollins (another exceptional climber) in 1979, but some folks in 1990 bolted a line so close to Charlie’s variation that it effectively trashed his achievement (the 1990 line is International Inquirer – it’s bolts should be removed; see the post for Irrational Inquirer).
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 21, 2012

Was this chopped recently?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2012

I haven't heard anything Daryl ... were you climbing there recently?
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 22, 2012

No, but I ran into a guy at the Windy Point area that told me about a group that was going around stripping hangers off of routes and leaving the bolts. He said it happened on several routes and this was just one affected.
By jbak
May 22, 2012

Really ? wow, that's pretty radical. Ethics statement regarding the number of bolts on the mountain ? Or maybe abandoned hangers = free money ?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2012

It's news to me. Seems a little odd to to take the hangers and leave the studs if this was ethically motivated. Daryl do you know what other routes were stripped?

I am assuming that we are talking about International Inquirer and not Mean Mistreater, correct?
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 23, 2012

MM was definitely one of the routes he mentioned but he said there were others in the area (sorry, I don't recall names). Kim and i were finishing a quick run up Hitchcock when we talked with him. My first thought was what John was thinking. That is, some furball just collecting shiny things but he mentioned he thought they are a group with some anti-bolt motives moving through the mountain.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 23, 2012

Pretty strange to take the hangers from MM for either reason. There are only a few to begin with; it hardly seems worth the effort.

I am happy to assist with replacing the missing hangers on MM. It should be a simple job to get them back up there assuming the studs were left intact.
By jbak
May 23, 2012

I just pray they spare Garc Onilom.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 7, 2012

Did some TR solo there today and there are no missing hangers on the the routes themselves. There's a 3-bolt anchor at the top of "Stepping in a Slide Zone" (climber's left across Rich and Dave chimney) with no hangers.
By Tradoholic
Dec 11, 2012

To confirm all hangers are still in place except for one missing off the two bolts next to the rap anchors for P1. I.E. rap anchors with chains still in place plus one bolt and one hangerless stud.

Pretty casual until the crux on P2, I thought more like a 10-. The crux can be well protected by a green C3 a bit higher than the bolt but the bolt is bomber too.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This is classic old school trad climbing. Thoughtful moves at times a bit off your gear. I am not sure about the comments regarding a ledge fall at the crux. The true runnout is on P2 going to the first bolt, not after the second bolt - definate ledge fall potential down low here but if you climb the weakest line it takes small gear before you step over to the bolt and the moves there are all easy. The crux has a bolt (#2) and microcams just above it - extremely well protected for a move that is clearly harder than anything else on the route but you won't hit anything. I absolutely loved the combination of heady climbing and occasional 5.10 moves on this line.