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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Mean Lean 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type: Trad
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 17, 2002
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  • Description 

    This route is more of a link-up than an independent line but it has some nice climbing and does follow a natural line, beginning on Kloeberdanz and moving left across the horizontal break under the roof band to finish at the anchors atop the first pitch of Psycho.

    Though the first bit heading left from Kloeberdanz looks desperate and piley, it actually has fairly solid rock and some ok pro. Once you reach Guenese, you get to start clipping bolts, but you'll still need plenty of gear to protect the stretches between each set of anchors.

    Lots of cruxes and plenty of interesting traversing make this an obscure but worthwhile Roof Wall outing.


    Protection 

    This is a long pitch. Bring lots of TCUs to 1.5" and some hand-sized stuff, plus stoppers.



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