Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Meadow River Gorge

Select Area...
Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
Upper Meadow 

Meadow River Gorge  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 107,476
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

Climbing Season

Traffic By Month

173 Total Routes

['4 Stars',25],['3 Stars',87],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',7],['5.9',15],['5.10',34],['5.11',41],['5.12',51],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Meadow River Gorge:
Arachniphobia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Sunkist Wall
Chimpanzabubbas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Trojans   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Tiggers and Airplanes   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Replicant   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Brown Star   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Brilliant Pebble
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Puppy Chow   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Lavender Days   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area
Browse More Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
If you're lucky, this big stick might still be there to stick clip the high first bolt.

Tatanka 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Orange Wall
This route has amazing movement and flow. It's fairly continuous but most of the harder moves are near the bolts. The first bolt is about 25 feet up at the top of the huecos. You might find a huge stick clip here, but you can also place a stopper at the bottom of the huecos. Climb up through the huecos and at the first bolt head left. Find a way to reach the jugs up left and angle back right to clip the 2nd bolt. If you can hang out here, you might be able to sling a chickenhead betw...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place... That puddle can get pretty deep in early spring...
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....

Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.
By Meme Guy
From: Land of Runout Slab
Jan 1, 2014
fuckin access problems...
By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Mar 2, 2014
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, www.newriverclimbing.net/.