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Tippling Tower
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Mea Culpa 

Mea Culpa 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Robin Barley, April 2006
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Jul 1, 2011
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Description 

Amazingly exposed and fun for the grade. Up a series of overhanging ledges with a bunch of air underneath your feet. Huge fun, get on it.


Location 

It's the southernmost route on the crag, basically facing south where the other routes on the crag face west. Tackle the arete.


Protection 

9 bolts. I couldn't find the anchors from the ground, but you *can* see them. Runners on bolts 2, 3 and 5 might help with drag.



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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
May 22, 2012

Did this route again last weekend. Seems when I wrote the topo I'd forgotten about the crux quickdraw on the seventh (I think?) clip.

By this point you're on a comfortable ledge maybe three or four feet above your last draw. There's a chopped bolt where your shoulder is, and a bolt roughly two feet out of reach. Clipping this draw can only really happen from an extremely insecure position as your feet are all out left and the roof is pushing you out right over the void. Blowing the clip from this position could be very nasty, there's some sharp blocks beneath the face.

I'd say bring something around a yellow Metolius if you're worried about taking a bad fall on an otherwise amazing climb. You can clean the cam after the clip to avoid rope drag.

By Mark van Eijk
Aug 7, 2012

The awe-inspiring sight of tippling tower becomes clearly visible as you come up through the fern gully boulder and should be reason enough to try this route. That said, it is not recommended for the beginner 5.9-leader as the route is not obvious, the climbing feels very exposed, and the clips can be awkward with ugly consequences for a mistake in the wrong place. I used a grey (0.4) C4 before the 7th clip and then removed it after making the next clip to mitigate rope drag - made the move feel much nicer. Highly recommended, the highlight of our trip!

By Victor D
Oct 11, 2013

I don't think it's 7530 feet long