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McTech Arete 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Klewin, Pat McNurtney, August 1978
Page Views: 12,553
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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First rap off top of McTech Arete.


This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.

P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)

P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)

P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)

P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)

P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)

P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)


This route starts off the same ledge as Paddle Flake but about 40' or 50' to the right on a large boulder below some flakes.


Rack up to 4" with extra finger, hand and fist sizes.

Photos of McTech Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Foster on the 4th pitch which features beauti...
Lisa Foster on the 4th pitch which features beauti...
Rock Climbing Photo: McTech Roof (5.10+).
McTech Roof (5.10+).
Rock Climbing Photo: CLimbers on McTech
BETA PHOTO: CLimbers on McTech
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful corner/roof on p4.
The beautiful corner/roof on p4.
Rock Climbing Photo: McTech Arete, Crescent Spire Photo by MP contribut...
BETA PHOTO: McTech Arete, Crescent Spire Photo by MP contribut...

Comments on McTech Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is definitely not an old-school 5.10. The crux protects very well and has tons of rests, so it feels easy.
By Hans
From: Squamish, BC
Dec 13, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the crux was the finish on the first pitch.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun short route to do in the bugs. The rock quality is amazing, sharp and splitter. The jams are fun through the little roofs and the protection is great. Head up there any enjoy it all the way to the top.

The scramble to the summit is easy and worth doing for the view.

The rappels are fairly straightforward. Use 2 ropes.
By clint helander
From: anchorage, alaska
Dec 5, 2013

great page! One suggestion: the FA was Pat McNerthney, not Pat McNurty.

Love the Bugs!!!!!
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Jul 30, 2015

The route raps easily with a 70M rope. Beware the second rap. The bolt anchor is about 25 feet climbers right from a sling anchor. The sling anchor is very visible while rapping down but the bolt anchor is not until you are right on it. When you see the sling anchor, move right.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 16, 2015

Super fun route on great rock the entire way (well, the third pitch of scrambling isn't great but otherwise...) We climbed the hand crack roof on the first pitch as it looked way more appealing than the wide crack off to the left and I'd highly recommend this perfect hands roof variation.

Consider going a bit heavy on the finger-sized pieces for the second pitch if you want to sew it up pretty well. A #4 camalot would be useful a few times on the route so it's worth bringing if you have one.

The fifth pitch is a full 30 meters despite the book saying it's 20m and it's a bit tricky just below the anchors ledge.

We rapped the route with a single 60m rope using all bolt anchors. The single 60m rope worked but a couple of the raps are rope-stretchers so watch the ends. The anchors may be tough to spot but generally trend rappellers right as you descend and you'll find them.

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