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McKinney Falls State Park

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McKinney Falls State Park Rock Climbing 

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Location: 30.1808, -97.7224 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,836
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kyber on Sep 30, 2008
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McKinney Falls is located in southeast Austin. The climbing here consists of short, relentless and steep boulder problems. Powerful and pockety.

Getting There

Heading South on I-35 exit William Cannon and head east until you dead end into McKinney Falls Pkwy go left and then take another left into the park. Pay at the booth and take your first right, go to the end and park. There's a trail that leads to a opening - walk across the limestone slab to the left. Once at the edge look for the oak tree to get down.


A current breakdown of the fees can be found on the McKinney Falls State Park site. As of October 2008, the fees are :

  • A day pass to the area for those 13 and older is $4.
  • Walk-in tent site - $12.
  • Sites with electric and water -$16

For more details, check out the TPWD site.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.5 miles from here

59 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in McKinney Falls State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for McKinney Falls State Park:
F*** Nut   V2 5+     Boulder   Scrunchy Wall
Low Rider   V3 6A     Boulder   Scrunchy Wall
The Arete   V3 6A     Boulder   Project Wall
Prow   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Warm-Up Wall
Evil Eyes   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Spacefarm
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in McKinney Falls State Park

Featured Route For McKinney Falls State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Dirt Bag Beta

Dirt Bag V2 5+  TX : McKinney Falls State Park : Scrunchy Wall
Match on a small slopey edge. Make a BIG move to a good edge. You can then either go to the top or move to the right sidepull before making a move to the top. Crux is the first move of the route; the slopey edge has a decent thumb-catch to pull off of. The key to the first move is finding good feet to crank off....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Comments on McKinney Falls State Park Add Comment
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By Dallas R
From: Traveling the USA
Nov 23, 2013
Day use fee is now $6 per person. When the front gate closes use the self pay station at the front gate. Not free after 5. There is a night patrol. The 11/30/13 flood has left a lot of debris. The map point shows Onion Trail not the bouldering area but the location description is accurate. There are usually maps at the self pay station that clearly mark the bouldering area but not the routes.
By ptrgeorge
From: Houston, TX
Nov 11, 2014
Anybody have decent directions to the Mill Creek(?) area in Mckinney, tried to find it last time I was out there was told to downclimb near a cement picnic table, found a table scrambled down to find an extremely overgrown cliff band, the ground was covered with old logs

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