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Glacier Gorge
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McHenry's Notch Couloir 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c AI2 Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c AI2 [details]
FA: 
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Apr 15, 2011

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McHenry's Notch Couloir, Aug. 2013.

Description 

This ascends the long couloir between McHenry's Peak and Powell Peak. The couloir is usually full of firm snow, but it can change into black ice by August or so. From the top of the gully, steep but easy climbing leads to either summit.

It should be noted that this couloir has also been skied before.

Protection 

A mixture of snow/ice/rock gear is recommended if you plan to protect this climb.


Photos of McHenry's Notch Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
McHenry's Peak and the Notch Couloir, as viewed fr...
McHenry's Peak and the Notch Couloir, as viewed fr...
McHenry's Notch Couloir, Aug. 2013.
McHenry's Notch Couloir, Aug. 2013.

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By Martin le Roux
From: Superior, CO
Sep 1, 2013

Do not - repeat, not - do as we did and attempt this in late August. The top of couloir had melted out, and we had to climb up loose, microwave-sized blocks perched on 50 degree mud. It might be a nice climb earlier in the summer.