The McDowell Mountains feature most of the main granite climbing crags in the northeast metro Phoenix area. Several fine formations of rough grained desert granite are found in the area featuring routes of all difficulties. The climbing is traditional in nature, both gear and bolted routes, and climbers should expect to place their own protection on a lot of the routes here.
Once threatened by house and golf course development, the city of Scottsdale (with the help of it's citizens, who kept voting in tax $$ support to acquire the land!) managed to turn the whole place into the McDowell-Sonoran Preserve, starting in the mid 90's and continuing to this day. The Preserve today sits at almost 22,000 acres with the eventual plan to encompass some 36,000+ acres!
The McDowells are located in northeast Scottsdale, just to the east/southeast of Pinnacle Peak. The area is accessed via the Tom's Thumb Trailhead (est. fall 2012) on the north side of the range. There are a couple of ways to get to the TTT as follows:
1) From the intersection of Happy Valley Road and Alma School Road (near Pinnacle Peak and just southwest of Troon Mountain), continue east on Happy Valley Road. Stay with it as it curves around to the north, then turns into the north bound 118th Street. Make a right on Ranch Gate Road (look for signs to the trailhead) and go east to 128th Street. Make another right and go south until you basically run into the trailhead entrance.
2) You can also come in from Rio Verde Drive by turning south onto 128th Street and taking it (initially dirt, then paved) to the trailhead entrance.
| || Follow the signs to the new trailhead... |
Note: You CAN do the approach to some of the crags from the Gateway Visitor's Center
off Thompson Peak Parkway, but this is a long (~6 miles to Tom's Thumb), uphill,
rocky approach and NOT recommended.
78 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in McDowell Mountains
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for McDowell Mountains:
Featured Route For McDowell Mountains
Space Cadets 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a AZ
: Central Arizona
: ... : Morrell's Wall
First I've got to say I only climbed the first 80' or so, I belayed and ended up rapping off from under the roof. This thing is action-packed. The first 35' or so is a tenuous seam that is quite delicate and takes thin gear. This is listed as 5.9 in the book, harder in my opinion. Gain a ledge, clip an old bolt, continue up into a slanting hand crack. Have fun switching from jams to lieback when it opens up. I belayed under the roof, but the route continues up past the roof, through another seam...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
News and Events For McDowell Mountains
Latest Regional Forum Messages
May 1, 2008
Yes in fact that is the Dome Wall, or Morell's Wall as it's often referred. That Photo is captured during summer from atop the Slab Ridge, or Sven's Slab as its known, looking South - West to the Wall as well as the Granite Thimble, or The Thumb.
May 1, 2008
Generally, climbing in the McDowell Mountains means stiff ratings to include run-outís as many of the routes are longtime established. Expect a wide variety of formations on varying quality of Granite. Hours Sunrise to Sunset, Stay on well established trails, No off-road driving, & No Fires or Camping!
|By Scott Z|
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Feb 8, 2009
looks to be a new trail going up the ridgeline to the right (looking north from the thumb) that meets up with the gully north of Gardner's Wall and continues SE. permanent access spot???
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
The access to Gardener's Wall and Tom's Thumb has changed. The City of Scottsdale requires you to park over near Morrell's Wall and to take the new trail from that point. This will add at least 45 minutes to any Gardener's Wall approach and about the same to Tom's Thumb.
From: Mesa AZ
May 18, 2010
Anyone interested in hiking up to Glass Dome area? Looking at exploring some of the cracks and, climbing the East side of Glass dome...
PM me or email - Shiloh@AZClimb.com
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 5, 2011
As of January 3, 2010, the road into the McDowells is in EXCELLENT shape! I never remember it being so good--EVER!! Basically, I think any 2WD, low clearance vehicle can make it all the way back. (This may change eventually with weather?)
Per Tradster's comment, I didn't actually time the hike in, but I don't think the new parking location adds 45 minutes--maybe 25-30?
.....Or perhaps living near the Sierras has made me burly. :)
|By cesar libanati|
Mar 8, 2012
Hello all, i was wondering if anyone could help me out. I am coming out from Cali this weekend and wanted to do some climbing on the gardeners wall.
Some of the threads are saying to come in from the north 128th dirt road,
Is that the best way to approach gardeners wall? any suggestions?
I have a older person with me who was gonna watch, but im not sure he can do 45 min in and out. is that how long the approach is from the north east parking area?
Thanks in advance
Sep 7, 2012
Below please find the rock climbing guidelines that govern rock climbing in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve.
The City of Scottsdaleís City Council has formally adopted climbing policies and maps for the McDowells. There were years of work and meetings on which this final outcome was based. In order to keep our climbing areas open we will need to abide by these policies and keep the crags clean.
As you can see, they are modeled after the Pinnacle Peak Park climbing guidelines. The City of Scottsdale wanted to have similar policies throughout the parks and preserves it owns.
The good news is that we can keep climbing. The challenges involve climbing only on designated crags (named and mapped), staying only on official trails and climber routes to access the crags, and complying with the policy of no new bolts in new locations.
The City has constructed a new Tomís Thumb Trail Head, which is now open. The best way to the new Tomís Thumb Trail Head is to take Pima to Happy Valley road and head east. Pass by the 104th Street stop sign, and continue easterly. Eventually Happy Valley turns north for a short while. Turn right/east on Ranch Gate Road to 128th, where after a couple of miles a right turn southbound takes you to the new trail head. This is shorter than going all the way to Dynamite and is the only other alternative.
For more information and to discuss any questions please contact Erik Filsinger at email@example.com. I can also send you the climbing plan (map) for the Preserve.
Rock Climbing Guidelines
City of Scottsdale - McDowell Sonoran Preserve
(Approved by the McDowell Sonoran Preserve Commission in February, 2011,
and the City Council in October, 2011)
The McDowell Sonoran Preserve has been acquired by the City of Scottsdale to preserve and protect the natural beauty and ecological features of the McDowell Mountains and Sonoran Desert, provide accessibility to the Preserve for passive recreational uses in a safe and healthy environment, and provide educational opportunities related to the flora and fauna of the Sonoran Desert.
In order to insure the long-term protection of this natural resource and facilitate the safe use of the Preserve by the general public while mitigating impacts to the natural environment and surrounding residents, Ordinance # 3321 was approved by the City Council on May 23rd, 2000. These Rock Climbing Guidelines provide additional guidance related to accepted practices, responsibilities, and areas where rock climbing will be allowed within the Preserve.
Rock or cliff climbing or rappelling is allowed only in designated areas within the Preserve. The designated areas correspond to existing and historical crags. Please also see the Conceptual Preserve Rock Climbing Plan for the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, on which the Climbing Areas are identified. The areas are named in the following list by the common name for the key rock formation in the area but also include other nearby rock formations to the key rock formation. (The list of Climbing Areas in the Preserve may be modified from time to time to reflect additional land acquisitions that include historical climbing areas.)
Those areas are as follows:
1. Rock Knob and vicinity
2. Sven Slab and vicinity
3. Sven Towers I, II and III and vicinity
4. Morrellís Parking Lot and vicinity
5. Morrellís Wall and vicinity
6. Gardenerís Wall and vicinity
7. Crossroad Wall and vicinity
8. Glass Dome and vicinity
9. Goat Hill and vicinity
10. Tomís Thumb and vicinity
11. Lost Wall and vicinity
12. Half and Half Wall and vicinity
13. Fort McDowell Wall and vicinity
14. Granite Ballroom and vicinity
15. Rosetta Stone and vicinity
16. Hog Heaven and vicinity
18. Lost in the Air and vicinity
Violators of climbing and other regulations and laws governing the McDowell Sonoran Preserve are subject to prosecution resulting in fines and/or imprisonment in accordance with City of Scottsdale Ordinance # 3321.
CLIMBING ACCESS ROUTES
Access to the climbing areas is allowed only via designated and signed climbing access routes, as identified on the Conceptual Rock Climbing Master Plan for the McDowell Sonoran Preserve. These routes connect the primary Preserve trails system to the rock-climbing areas.
CLIMBER RESPONSIBILITY AND SAFETY
The City of Scottsdale recognizes, as should all climbers, that all climbing activities are inherently dangerous. Further, it is impossible for City staff to guarantee the safety, experience, or ability of any climber. City staff will not inspect or certify the climbing equipment or ability of any visitor. City staff will not certify any routeís difficulty rating, safety or the reliability of any fixed anchor.
Preserve visitors climb at their own risk and are solely responsible for their personal safety while climbing on Preserve property. Climbers are expected to secure proper equipment and training, and are expected to adhere to standard climbing safety practices. Safe climbing demands that each climber has experience in route finding, route protection, rope handling, retreat from steep faces, and emergency first aid.
WARNINGS TO BE POSTED AT PRESERVE TRAILHEADS USED BY CLIMBERS
1. All climbing activities are inherently dangerous and may result in injury or death.
2. Climbers climb at their own risk and are responsible for obtaining proper equipment and training.
3. City staff does not create or maintain any climbing route.
4. City staff does not install or maintain the fixed anchors on any climbing route.
5. Route selection and the decision to rely on fixed anchors are the climberís responsibility.
6. New routes are not allowed.
OTHER CLIMBING INFORMATION
1. Climbing is allowed in designated areas only and must coincide with the Preserveís posted hours of operation.
2. Climbers must utilize the designated climbing access routes leading from the main Preserve trail to climbing areas.
3. Temporary or permanent closures of individual routes or specific climbing areas may occur to protect the natural resources or for visitor safety.
4. Fixed anchor locations are limited to those already established, unless subsequently authorized by City Staff.
5. Unroped climbing is not recommended on the larger formations, but bouldering is permitted within the aforementioned climbing areas.
Prior to the acquisition of McDowell Sonoran Preserve by the City of Scottsdale, the climbing areas on the property were established by the local climbing community using fixed anchors, primary expansion bolts and pitons (collectively referred to as fixed anchors). Responsibility for the installation, inspection, and long term maintenance of these fixed anchors rests completely with the climbing community. The City of Scottsdale makes no claims as to any fixed anchorís condition or reliability and does not guarantee that any fixed anchor is still in place. In addition:
1. All anchor placements will be installed on a volunteer basis by members of the climbing community.
2. All climbing equipment, tools, anchor hardware, and any other costs associated with anchor placement are to be provided by the climbing community.
3. Old anchors are to be completely removed and carried out.
4. When possible, old anchor holes will be redrilled and reused. Otherwise, old anchor holes are to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy and rock dust.
5. City staff will have no role in anchor placements.
1. Rock Climbing includes the following:
∑ Rappelling: Using a rope to descend from a steep slope or face.
∑ Free Climbing: Climbing in which the climber relies on the rope only for safety. Progress is made by using the hands and feet on the natural features. Anchors are typically used, but only to stop a fall; they are not used as climbing aids.
∑ Direct Aid Climbing: Climbing in which the climber is completely dependent on the rope for support and safety. Progress is made by installing protective anchors in the rock and then relying on them to support the climberís weight as the climber stands on them and reaches up to the next anchor.
∑ Bouldering: Climbing that occurs on rock faces usually less than 20 feet high. Typically it involves repeating a sequence of moves up or across a rock face. Usually done without a rope.
2. Fixed Anchor: Climbing protection that is installed and intended to be left as a permanent fixture on a climbing route. The most common examples include pitons, which are hammered into cracks, and expansion bolts, which are drilled into smooth rock faces.
Sep 7, 2012
| || This is the new official rock climbing plan for the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, an area owned and managed by the City of Scottsdale. See previous comment for details on the official climbing policies that have been adopted. |