McDonald-Wilson  5.10c R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Randy McDonald and Don Wilson Submitted By:  Blitzo on Apr 26, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: "Mc Donald-Wilson".
Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

This climbs the poorly protected face to the left of "Andromeda Strain". I really can't see any way to safely protect this climb. There was a bolt, but it is gone, Start near the left side of the face and do some lieback moves then move up friction to a scoop/hole. Move up a shallow corner/groove with a gold pocket, then a shallow , right curving finger crack leads to a ledge beneath a headwall. A sheered off 1/4" bolt and additional hole will be seen. A horizontal crack/groove moves left. Move up on to this. A hidden undercling hold is useful. Once on this horizontal, climb the thin face above, following the line of least resistance. This section, to me is the crux. Move up and right to a slightly overhanging Crack/corner (5.9/10-) to the top.
It's a good route, but would be a scary, dangerous lead.

Protection 

Standard rack, pick what looks like it might work. The cracks are sparse and flared. The bolt is gone. The upper crack will take good pro, but that's not much help. Safer to top rope. Gear will have to be used for anchors and some blocks can be tied off. Long slings will be needed to extend the anchor, out over the climb.