McCarthy West Face/Hong 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Hong and Budding 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Paul Heyliger on Nov 25, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pull the big roof on right... FEEL the power...
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route takes the typically combined Hong Variation to McCarthy West Face, and is yet another brilliant route that graces the West Face. Begin two cracks left of the start to the obvious El Matador, and pass two cruxes on the first pitch: a layback/finger crack over a roof (11b), and then just below the belay ledge is a slightly easier (11a/b) mantle/face problem. The stunning second pitch (11c) takes the much-photographed splitter on the right, starting with thin hands and then stemming out left and up the thinning crack to a final crank up and right (crux) to the top of the column. Bomber gear the whole way. A beautiful and extremely fine climb.
Protection RP's, many small-large stoppers, and small-medium Friends
| Comments on McCarthy West Face/Hong |
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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.11c
| Awkward crux that totally BAFFLED me...
SPECTACULAR views... |
By nolteboy
Sep 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b
| My comments are for p.1 only- haven't tried the 2nd pitch (McCarthy West Face route)...
A little different from most Tower pitches that I've climbed, this one features a stress-type fracture that runs up and down one particular column (as opposed to the typical crack here that actually separates the columns). Interesting and sustained climbing, but with a couple of good rests. A #1 and a couple of #0.75 camalots for the thin hand crack below the roof, with doubles of smaller cams and some stoppers for the rest of the pitch above that. |
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jul 14, 2011
| I think you can do the crux at the top of pitch 2 two different ways. I have seen people exit the actual crack to the right just before the top as per the route description above. I stemmed the crack all the way to the top of the pillar. That felt about 5.12- to me. |
By slim
Sep 23, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| have only done the first pitch a few times. 3 cruxy spots - barn door roof sort of deal, then a short section that looks really easy but feels kind of tough, then blankish spot that you just kind of have to 'float' through. we always seem to run out of time before being able to try that spectacular looking 2nd pitch. need to get out of bed earlier. |
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