McCarthy West Face (Variant)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 136 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Chris Ballinger, Dennis Horning and Steve Gardiner 7/1978 |
Page Views: | 11,013 total · 42/month |
Shared By: | Joe Collins on Sep 27, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
A super-fun route on the west face. This is apparently a good way to summit on the west face, but most parties do not climb beyond the 2nd pitch. The description here only includes the 1st 2 pitches. The 1st pitch is very popular.
This climb can be identified by the prominent roof on the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is directly left of the column forming the left wall of El Matador's stem box.
P1- beginning just to the left of the start of El Matador, scramble easily up to a flake below the obvious roof. The right-hand variation around the roof is the HONG VARIATION (11b) while the left hand variation is 5.9+. Climb the thin hand crack on the left over the bulge (crux). Continue upward past some fun stemming to a bolted belay.
P2- From the belay, the crack heading directly upward to the top of the El matador column is 11c. The W Face Variant takes the crack on the left over a large roof to the steep, endless hand crack above.Climb up the left hand crack and pull the very-difficult roof (crux)... a stem-rest comes right afterward. The roof is protected by a bolt though excellent gear can be placed in the crack. Now that the crux is over, continue more easily, though relentlessly, up the hand crack. This is a long and very-sustained hand-crack... stemming helps.
Continue upwards to the summit (my guess is this isn't done too often) or 2 double rope raps to the ground
This climb can be identified by the prominent roof on the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is directly left of the column forming the left wall of El Matador's stem box.
P1- beginning just to the left of the start of El Matador, scramble easily up to a flake below the obvious roof. The right-hand variation around the roof is the HONG VARIATION (11b) while the left hand variation is 5.9+. Climb the thin hand crack on the left over the bulge (crux). Continue upward past some fun stemming to a bolted belay.
P2- From the belay, the crack heading directly upward to the top of the El matador column is 11c. The W Face Variant takes the crack on the left over a large roof to the steep, endless hand crack above.Climb up the left hand crack and pull the very-difficult roof (crux)... a stem-rest comes right afterward. The roof is protected by a bolt though excellent gear can be placed in the crack. Now that the crux is over, continue more easily, though relentlessly, up the hand crack. This is a long and very-sustained hand-crack... stemming helps.
Continue upwards to the summit (my guess is this isn't done too often) or 2 double rope raps to the ground
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