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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

M.C. Epic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: year round
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A chossy start leads through a steep, wide crack to nice crack climbing above. Very fun climbing through an overhanging corner replete with great handjams and jugs.

Once through the overhang, the difficulty backs off. There is one more fun, steep section just below the anchors, but this is much easier than it looks.

One of the best moderate trad leads at the Overlook, along with Polly's Crack and Cholla Crack.

Location 

Left of Captain Smarmbag. Shown as route number 22 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

Nuts and some medium to large cams (including up to two #2 camalots) to bolted anchor.



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