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Mayflower Cirque Traverse T 
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Mayflower Cirque Traverse 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Year Round, Late Summer is best
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Sep 21, 2013

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The sweet couloir after the 5.4 downclimb between ...

Description 

This great traverse runs from the upper trailhead parking (4x4), to Atlantic Peak, Fletcher Peak, Drift Peak, and back down to the TH. For an idea of time, I climbed truck-2-truck in 5 hours. I experienced early snow and verglas, so it made it a bit more exciting. If you are comfortable soloing 5.7 alpine, no gear is necessary. If the crux shuts you down, you can traverse down below the spire on the west side and regain the ridge. An excellent write-up with much more detail is also found here: 14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.....

Location 

Park in Mayflower Gulch upper trailhead (easy 4x4 road). Hike due north across meadow (wet in places) to left edge of talus on Atlantic. Summit Atlantic and enjoy the 4th/easy 5th class traverse along 5 major spires to Fletcher. The 5th spire holds the 5.7, 20m crux pitch. From Fletcher, drop down and pass 2 more technical spires to Drift Peak. Follow the bony ridge down to the upper trailhead. Atlantic: 13,841'; Fletcher: 13,951'; Drift: 13,921'. For extra fun, consider adding Pacific (13,950') and Quandary (14,265') to this route, easily done in a day. The upper trailhead in Mayflower is located at the gated Boston Mine (11,500').

Protection 

A set of Link Cams, 30m rope.


Photos of Mayflower Cirque Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
The Knife ridge section after the 3rd spire, looking at the imposing 4th spire.
BETA PHOTO: The Knife ridge section after the 3rd spire, looki...
The grassy shoulder on the descent off Drift, back to the upper trailhead.
The grassy shoulder on the descent off Drift, back...
From Fletcher looking across the connecting ridge to Quandary.
From Fletcher looking across the connecting ridge ...
Summit of Atlantic looking south to Fletcher.
BETA PHOTO: Summit of Atlantic looking south to Fletcher.
Panorama from Fletcher looking (L to R) at Quandary, Wheeler, Bartlett, and Drift.
Panorama from Fletcher looking (L to R) at Quandar...
Summit of Fletcher looking south to Wheeler and Bartlett.
Summit of Fletcher looking south to Wheeler and Ba...
Summit panaroma from Atlantic, looking west-northeast.  The west face of Fletcher, summit of Pacific, Blue River Valley.
Summit panaroma from Atlantic, looking west-northe...
Looking up at the the ridge from the McCullough Gulch side.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the the ridge from the McCullough Gu...

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