|Torture Machine Area
This climb is the extension to Minimizer, which ends at the Whammy anchors. If you are doing the extension, you can skip the anchors entirely without being unsafe; simply pass them on climber's right and continue following the bolts. The climbing quickly becomes continuous 10+ up until a challenging first crux consisting of small crimps and edges up to a decent jug right below the roof. Take a rest and shake out before committing to the roof sequence, which is harder for climbers under 5'10" or so. The last 10 feet to the anchors is juggy but still exciting if pumped out!
Shares the first bolt with Whammy and then heads straight up the wall.
15 bolts, two-bolt anchor/rap
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Dec 2, 2009
I put this as 5.11d per the guidebook, but at six feet I didn't feel that any of the moves were over 5.11c. On the roof, however, I was able to reach the nice rail on the right while still holding the big sidepull with my left. If I had maybe 4 inches less wingspan, this wouldn't have been possible and I would have had to put both hands on those awful crimps... so for some this will likely be the 11d crux.
|By Steve Shiflett|
From: Upland, Ca
Oct 29, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The climbing is a little pumpy in the steep sections, but the holds are huge in these parts. The roof was also much easier than expected. I didn't feel it was even close to 11d.
|By Ian McG|
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fun, crimpy climbing. Moving past the anchors of minimizer is a bit contrived- it's easy to get off route. 11d due to the somewhat height dependent nature of the crux.
|By Phil Esra|
Feb 3, 2014
yeah, felt like Quarry 11d at 5'6". Gotta get the crux beta just right. Fun route.