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Natural Buttress
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Max Headroom 

Max Headroom 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Not listed in Guides (both SHCH & Piana)
Season: Winter Mornings!
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 4, 2008
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  • Use the volunteer guide system.
  • Guided Access Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    There are two bolted routes on the morning sun side of Natural Buttress. The first reached is Sunny Side Up, 5.12b. Max is up right. After the first bolt, Paul Piana's gear beta: "a few 1"-2" pieces might be nice. A 3.5 friend protects the move to clip the 2nd bolt halfway up..." I think of the first half as the funky appoach and the upper half as six bolts protecting vertical-plus, sustained, 5.10 "finger-buckets" on great rock. (Piana quote again).

    Not the best belay zone, but one can get in a sunny pitch here two-plus hours before the Frontside gets radiated.

    I plan to use the guide system for Max Headroom and get a photo before 2009.


    Location 

    Walk at least 100 meters past the east end of the dam, until below the buttress. Then up through the boulders.


    Protection 

    I'd bring the #1,2,3,4 Camalots and some slings to keep it straight.



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