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Red Springs Rock
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Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 
Unsorted Routes:

Mavericks 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: KH, NP, KJ
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Stone Nude on Apr 19, 2014

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Description 

An airy and varied line. Follows a zigzagging line of holds toward a seam that arcs through a steep headwall. Black slab with plentiful holds to a bulge initial crux around 10-, then up a slab to a vertical pocket and flake section, a good rest before the steepness,and then sequential movement up a reachy throw crux and pumping to the chains. A much easier red point than onsight.

Location 

The big face to the right of Rocky Road, this is the line on the right that starts up a black slab via face climbing.

Protection 

13 bolts to ring anchors. Worthwhile on this line to bring some 24" slings for the bolts in the middle section to keep rope drag down, it's a long pitch and it follows an 'S' profile. 60 M rope required to lower.


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By Stone Nude
Apr 19, 2014

This route was bolted ground up, no hooks, no chalk, no previewing. The grade has been the subject of a lot of discussion, I feel that anyone shorter than 5'8" may lean towards 12a, to my mind it's 11+/12- and a rad new addition to the Calico Hills. The throw move currently has a bunch of chalk on it, I feel that the un-tick marked state of the route is significantly harder. Overall a fun and entertaining first ascent that challenged all three of us to step up our game, done in the best style us gumbies could manage.

A historical note-when topping out, Nate stumbled upon an anchor apparently installed several years ago by someone who never took the step of bolting the route. This anchor was mixed metals and we replaced it with stainless bolts and rings at our own expense, and moved it to a better spot to clip. Early bird, worm, etc.