The Maverick is a really fun 4 pitch route. Stevie Haston freed it at 5.13a, but most climbers aid it at 5.9 A2. It goes clean very easily-don't even think about using a hammer on this line.
Pitch 1 - Climb either 5.8R or A2 to a beautiful 5.13a or A1 splitter fingercrack. 60 feet to a fixed belay.
Pitch 2 - Either climb 5.9+ directly left from the belay, or aid A1 up to a fixed pendulum point and swing left about 15 feet. Both ways reach easy 5.6 mud to a good belay ledge. 50 feet.
Pitch 3 - Climb past a 5.9- bulge to another easier bulge. 50 feet to a killer belay ledge.
Pitch 4 - Climb 5.11 or A2 for 30 feet until it is possible to start free climbing at 5.7 70 feet to the top of the spire.
1 double rope rap from the summit leads back to the land bridge.
2 sets of RPs(offsets very useful), 2 sets of stoppers, 1 set of cams to 3 inches.
|By Dave Chenault|
Nov 28, 2001
Way cool. The first pitch was a good first aid lead for me, fith perfect rock in the upper seam. The difficult bit of p3 is very short, two brief bulges that could probably be aided. The first is a bit of bridging to a mantel, and the second a high=step to a mantel. Good gear for both. Weirdly, the rock on this route get worse the higher you go. "The desert is very phallic." -my friend Mona J., and this is the most phallic of all desert rocks when viewed from the parking lot.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 3, 2003
My 2 cents --1) Gear: I used only 1 RP on the entire route (pitch 1). I would recommend 2 sets of nuts and a single set of cams to 3". Splitter 2-cams worked well for several placements.
2) The rap from the top back down to the land bridge is roughly 150 ft (45m) and free-hanging. Also, it would be difficult to bail off after the first pitch, as the route angles left.
|By Joe Forrester|
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 24, 2006
The description for this route should be C2, NOT A2. It is not difficult to climb clean and it would be a bummer to give people the wrong impression.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 25, 2006
Changes made, good idea Joe.
I guess its also relevant to say that this goes free at 5.13ish.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 30, 2007
Whoever gets the thin splitter pitch..(1 or 2...depending on where you belay...)you get the "money" pitch;...after that...,... you get the groady leftovers....;...the booby prize. A Harvey Carter Route;...he da Man! And this went free too.....wow.....not by me. Did this with Dave Evans, Cyndie Bransford, and Margy Floyd in Arch 1991. What a cool spire.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Mar 31, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Super fun route, and a perfect first aid tower for my wife and I. We had a very cold and windy day, which added to the thrill.
As of March 2009, the approach was well cairned and took about 25 minutes. At the major cliffband, the trail moves up and left across easy terraces to a short little chimney. We bypassed the chimney on easy terraces just to the right.
P1) I thought the opening moves getting to the crack were exciting, especially considering the hard landing on the ledge. The remainder of the crack was straightforward for a novice aid climber.
P2) The gear seemed a little funky for me getting to the fixed piece for the penji, especially considering the fall onto the belay. Maybe I didn't spend enough time fiddling in the right piece. I have no idea what I clipped into for the penji, all I saw was tat and rust :)
P3) We linked P3 and P4 with no problem. The free climbing seemed pretty easy - just fun stemming with good gear. The upper aid bit was short and all the gear seemed pretty good. Take care on the final free climbing section to the top, as there are lots of loose rocks and my aiders almost dropped one on my belayer. There was one fixed pin and good gear available for the anchor on top. And then you downclimb to the rap anchor.
The rap was exciting particularly with ropes blowing sideways. It doesn't look like you'll land on the bridge, but amazingly you end up right on it. Free hanging for sure.
Gear for me: Two sets of wires from brass offsets to big wires. Two sets of small to finger sized cams (I placed a green and grey C3). Tricams from white to pink. I had a set of offset TCUs and placed a few, but I don't think they are necessary. One set of camalots from #.5 - #3