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Maverick Buttress

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Texas Two Step 
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Maverick Buttress 


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Page Views: 26,119
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Hill on May 12, 2002
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this includes maverick. 4/1/13

Description 

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.


Getting There 

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. A good trail starts on the right side of a large boulder and leads right up to Gunsmoke. Many of the other routes are found around the left side of the buttress. Squeeze behind a giant boulder near the base of Gunsmoke, and Hot Toddy is 100 feet to the left.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',9],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maverick Buttress:
Hot Toddy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
Saddle Sores   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Texas Two Step   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
Tequila Sunrise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad   
Quickdraw   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Round-Up   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Gunsmoke   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad   
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mustang Man   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Boot Hill   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Maverick Buttress

Featured Route For Maverick Buttress
Sending it!

Gunsmoke 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 150 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move strai...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Maverick Buttress
Photos of Maverick Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
good stuff
good stuff
This is the view northward down Long Canyon to Potash Road.
BETA PHOTO: This is the view northward down Long Canyon to Pot...
March, 2002
BETA PHOTO: March, 2002
The view down Long Canyon from Maverick Buttress is indeed something to behold.
The view down Long Canyon from Maverick Buttress i...
Here is a shot of the road leading up to the Buttress. Keep an eye open for the desert big horn sheep in the area.
Here is a shot of the road leading up to the Buttr...
What a view!
What a view!
Long Caynon from Maverick
Long Caynon from Maverick
Comments on Maverick Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007

This crag could be candidate for the "crag with the best view in the world" award. Simply stunning.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2012

Fully agreed with Andy on this one. The view from ths crag is the better than any view from anywhere in Indian Creek in my opinion. the climing is very good too. Go check it out!

For the drive, it's maybe 10 minutes past the routes on potash. There is a huge pullout, keep going. You will see a train track parallel the road. Keep going. Jug Handle Arch, turn right follow the dirt road (which has been improved since last year).

By JenH
From: Denver, CO
Apr 1, 2013

There is a sign stating "no permitted climbing activities from April 1 through August 15". I had not been aware of a closure. Does anyone have the beta?

By JenH
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2013

Your Question: Is there a closure of Maverick Buttress in Long Canyon off Potash Road in effect?

BLM Answer: Maverick Buttress is denied to commercial climbing because it is in the heart of desert bighorn sheep country (as you may know, it is right next to an important bighorn sheep watering location).

While the Buttress is not closed to private climbing, we do ask private climbers to choose another climb during the lambing season (April 15 through June 15). I must reiterate that this is merely a request -- it is not a closure.

Please let me know if you have further questions,
Katie Stevens
Moab BLM
435-259-2172

By fritzthekat
6 days ago

LOST: a bright red women's small Patagonia silk weight T-shirt. I believe that I left it at the base of Gunsmoke last Thursday. Climbed there on my final day in Moab area and sadly didn't miss its presence until I was hours of driving away at the next climbing destination.
I know it's a little silly (it has some holes and is several years old) but for reasons both sentimental and practical I would really like to have it back.

If you find it and send it to me, I will send you: either a modest cash reward (please keep in mind the aforementioned condition of the shirt) OR (worth much more I assure you) a kick ass care package tailored just to you.

If it doesn't turn up in a week or so, I will delete this comment.

Thanks!