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The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.
Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. A good trail starts on the right side of a large boulder and leads right up to Gunsmoke. Many of the other routes are found around the left side of the buttress. Squeeze behind a giant boulder near the base of Gunsmoke, and Hot Toddy is 100 feet to the left.
15 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Maverick Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maverick Buttress:
Hot Toddy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad
Saddle Sores 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Texas Two Step 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad
Quickdraw 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Round-Up 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Gunsmoke 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Mustang Man 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Boot Hill 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Maverick Buttress
Gunsmoke 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c UT : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 150 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move strai...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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