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The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.
Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. A good trail starts on the right side of a large boulder and leads right up to Gunsmoke. Many of the other routes are found around the left side of the buttress. Squeeze behind a giant boulder near the base of Gunsmoke, and Hot Toddy is 100 feet to the left.
15 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maverick Buttress:
Hot Toddy 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Saddle Sores 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Texas Two Step 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Quickdraw 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Round-Up 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Gunsmoke 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Mustang Man 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Boot Hill 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Maverick Buttress
Boot Hill 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b UT : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
The pretty splitter up high on the south face of the Mav, but you have to brave the awkward sandy start. A steep #2 friend section leads into a very weird move where you kind of dive into the chimney and start wriggling. After doing this move, the old Astroman topo which advises a "chicken-wing dyno" entry into the Harding Slot makes a bit more sense. Once in the chimney, easy climbing sets you up to exit onto the upper face and the ringlock and thin-hand madness. Don't stop......[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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