The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.
Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. A good trail starts on the right side of a large boulder and leads right up to Gunsmoke. Many of the other routes are found around the left side of the buttress. Squeeze behind a giant boulder near the base of Gunsmoke, and Hot Toddy is 100 feet to the left.
Browse More Classics in Maverick Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maverick Buttress:
Hot Toddy 5.10b Trad
Saddle Sores 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Texas Two Step 5.10 Trad
Tequila Sunrise 5.10d Trad
Quickdraw 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Round-Up 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Gunsmoke 5.11a Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Steers and Queers 5.11+ Trad
Featured Route For Maverick Buttress
Hot Toddy 5.10b UT : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
Hot Toddy is an obvious right facing dihedral located on the southeast face of Maverick Buttress. The route starts on top of a boulder with a step into a wide spot with some easy stemming. Place a cam up high (to keep from pulling your belayer off the boulder should you fall) and it's off to the races! It's perfect hand jams up the corner for the next 70' with a few spots where you can get a right foot on the face. The last 5 feet is wide but should pose no real threat. Descent: Rap 80' ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT