Maverick Buttress Rock Climbing
Long Caynon from Maverick
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.
Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. A good trail starts on the right side of a large boulder and leads right up to Gunsmoke. Many of the other routes are found around the left side of the buttress. Squeeze behind a giant boulder near the base of Gunsmoke, and Hot Toddy is 100 feet to the left.
Weather station 5.4 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Maverick Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maverick Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maverick Buttress:
Round-Up 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Quickdraw 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Unknown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 115'
Rawhide 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Mustang Man 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Boot Hill 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Maverick Buttress
Round-Up 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Maverick Buttress
Round-Up is about fifty to seventy-five feet to the climbers left from Texas Two Step (over, around and through some large boulders). The climb starts up a couple moves of suspect holds to parallel finger cracks. The right side takes green aliens. Establish yourself on the finger crack and make some bouldery moves (.11a) to gain the hand crack. Stroker hands eventually taper to .75-.5 camalot size at a horizontal break. Move up and right at the horizontal break continuing with hands to large...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: This is the view northward down Long Canyon to Pot...
The view down Long Canyon from Maverick Buttress i...
Maverick Buttress, Long Canyon
this includes maverick. 4/1/13
Maverick Buttress, Long Canyon
Here is a shot of the road leading up to the Buttr...
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007
This crag could be candidate for the "crag with the best view in the world" award. Simply stunning.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2012
Fully agreed with Andy on this one. The view from ths crag is the better than any view from anywhere in Indian Creek in my opinion. the climing is very good too. Go check it out!
For the drive, it's maybe 10 minutes past the routes on potash. There is a huge pullout, keep going. You will see a train track parallel the road. Keep going. Jug Handle Arch, turn right follow the dirt road (which has been improved since last year).
From: Denver, CO
Apr 1, 2013
There is a sign stating "no permitted climbing activities from April 1 through August 15". I had not been aware of a closure. Does anyone have the beta?
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2013
Your Question: Is there a closure of Maverick Buttress in Long Canyon off Potash Road in effect?
BLM Answer: Maverick Buttress is denied to commercial climbing because it is in the heart of desert bighorn sheep country (as you may know, it is right next to an important bighorn sheep watering location).
While the Buttress is not closed to private climbing, we do ask private climbers to choose another climb during the lambing season (April 15 through June 15). I must reiterate that this is merely a request -- it is not a closure.
Please let me know if you have further questions,