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Maverick Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boot Hill T 
Gunsmoke T 
High Noon T 
Hot Toddy T 
Just the Tip! T 
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 
Mustang Man T 
Quickdraw S 
Rawhide T 
Round-Up T 
Saddle Sores T 
Steers and Queers T 
Tequila Sunrise T 
Texas Two Step T 
Unknown T 
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Maverick Buttress 


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Page Views: 27,347
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Hill on May 12, 2002
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Description 

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.


Getting There 

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. A good trail starts on the right side of a large boulder and leads right up to Gunsmoke. Many of the other routes are found around the left side of the buttress. Squeeze behind a giant boulder near the base of Gunsmoke, and Hot Toddy is 100 feet to the left.


Climbing Season


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',9],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maverick Buttress:
Hot Toddy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Saddle Sores   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Texas Two Step   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Tequila Sunrise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Quickdraw   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Round-Up   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Gunsmoke   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mustang Man   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Boot Hill   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Maverick Buttress

Featured Route For Maverick Buttress
Boothill

Boot Hill 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Maverick Buttress
The pretty splitter up high on the south face of the Mav, but you have to brave the awkward sandy start. A steep #2 friend section leads into a very weird move where you kind of dive into the chimney and start wriggling. After doing this move, the old Astroman topo which advises a "chicken-wing dyno" entry into the Harding Slot makes a bit more sense. Once in the chimney, easy climbing sets you up to exit onto the upper face and the ringlock and thin-hand madness. Don't stop......[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Maverick Buttress
Photos of Maverick Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
good stuff
good stuff
This is the view northward down Long Canyon to Potash Road.
BETA PHOTO: This is the view northward down Long Canyon to Pot...
March, 2002
BETA PHOTO: March, 2002
The view down Long Canyon from Maverick Buttress is indeed something to behold.
The view down Long Canyon from Maverick Buttress i...
Here is a shot of the road leading up to the Buttress. Keep an eye open for the desert big horn sheep in the area.
Here is a shot of the road leading up to the Buttr...
What a view!
What a view!
Long Caynon from Maverick
Long Caynon from Maverick
Comments on Maverick Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007

This crag could be candidate for the "crag with the best view in the world" award. Simply stunning.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2012

Fully agreed with Andy on this one. The view from ths crag is the better than any view from anywhere in Indian Creek in my opinion. the climing is very good too. Go check it out!

For the drive, it's maybe 10 minutes past the routes on potash. There is a huge pullout, keep going. You will see a train track parallel the road. Keep going. Jug Handle Arch, turn right follow the dirt road (which has been improved since last year).

By JenH
From: Denver, CO
Apr 1, 2013

There is a sign stating "no permitted climbing activities from April 1 through August 15". I had not been aware of a closure. Does anyone have the beta?

By JenH
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2013

Your Question: Is there a closure of Maverick Buttress in Long Canyon off Potash Road in effect?

BLM Answer: Maverick Buttress is denied to commercial climbing because it is in the heart of desert bighorn sheep country (as you may know, it is right next to an important bighorn sheep watering location).

While the Buttress is not closed to private climbing, we do ask private climbers to choose another climb during the lambing season (April 15 through June 15). I must reiterate that this is merely a request -- it is not a closure.

Please let me know if you have further questions,
Katie Stevens
Moab BLM
435-259-2172