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At the second bolt. Photo by Luke Clarke.
I wish I had written notes in my guidebook as to exactly what gear is helpful and whether or not there actually was an extra bolt added to this exciting route.
Do Oblique Streak to the ledge and traverse left to underneath Mausoleum (5.9 with interesting moves on junk rock). Do a couple committing moves to get to the first of 3 or 4 modern bolts. The line stays mostly on a blunt arete with captivating and pumpy moves between the bolts and mostly marginal (optional) gear placements. The actual Mausoleum route isn't very long but it is in a very cool position high up there. Oddly placed anchor set-up. A couple raps with a 60m rope to get off.
Maybe someone else should do it and write a better description. It really is a great line so get on it!
QDs are pretty much all you'll need for the arete and a small rack (mostly for Oblique Streak).
The huecoed Mausoleum arete.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2010
I was at the anchors at the base of Mausoleum after doing the first pitch of Cryptomaniac looking up at this for quite a while. I decided I had to try it, since it looked a lot like a gym climb, and I've been derisively referring to myself as a gym climber recently.
The first clip is well protected by a #0.75 Camalot on the right. The second clip is dicey--if you blow it and fall it would be a ledge fall. I was pretty tired and spooked making that clip. The third bolt is the crux, and I hung a few times before I got the moves which involved laying off either side of the arete on slopers. That was my high point as I had no small gear, and more so because I was blown. It looked like the next piece would be a micro cam in the corner placed from a sloping jug. Above that is a pocket that might take a yellow Alien or so, or a TriCam (hard to place), or neither. I could see nothing above that, nor could I see the top anchors.
This would be really popular if it was easier to access, and if it had one more bolt.
From: Denver, CO
Jan 25, 2012
I climbed this route over the weekend...pretty fun climb that is fairly unique for the area given the hueco features. Also, it was more pumpy than it looks.
Just to confirm, the route has 3 bolts on the lower sections finished up with 30-40 ft of trad climbing. The gear that I would recommend is: two 0.3 Camalots, two 0.4 Camalots, one 0.75 Camalot, one 0.5 Camalot, and a 0 and 00 C3.
Also, there is a loose block near the top that should be removed for safety, as it is directly in line with the climbing and is hard not to use. I would have removed it, but there were others in the area, not to mention our packs below. Next time I am there, I will try to make it up and remove safely if still in place.