kenr
·
Jul 27, 2014
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
We don't seem to get many photos of the more spectacular rock features in the north half of the Matthes Crest, so 10 of them here
my questions:
a) After reaching the North summit, how to rappel off with a single rope? Seems like the normal rap directly off the North summit requires two ropes. But is somehow rappel from the N summit toward or into the notch between N + S summits (to avoid tricky down-climbing) then reach some sequence of shorter rappels from around the notch or the South summit?
b) Seemed like a more or two near the bottom of the N arete of the N summit required jamming technique, on rock around vertical without great feet (on the E side of the arete). Good protection with a cam or two in the upward N->S direction, perhaps trickier to place in the more popular downward S->N direction. For soloists without protection, I saw one looking very thoughtful at that point. And heard another soloist I met much farther N on the ridge say that he felt the move on the N summit arete was more "out there" than the overhanging hand traverse.
For those of us visitors who don't get so much opportunity to practice our jamming as we should to feel bomber-solid confident ... Is there good way to avoid this couple of moves? (like maybe along the W side of the arete?)
c) I've seen photos and guidebook descriptions of an exposed step-across move not far north from the N summit arete -- but this time I didn't seem to find it. Maybe because I dropped lower on the East side for my last 40 feet to the arete. Is the "wild" step-across for real? Is is somewhere else on the north half of Matthes? Maybe it really wasn't so wild?
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