Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Matthes Crest beta needed
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Jason Kim
From Encinitas, CA
Aug 27, 2014
Descending Cox Col (Bear Creek Spire). Photo by Ryan Slaybaugh. <br />
My partner and I are planning to do the S-N traverse with one 60 meter rope, and we would like to know if this poses a problem if we end up rapping/bailing from the north summit, instead of finishing the full traverse? We don't want to carry two ropes if they aren't necessary, and unfortunately we don't own doubles.

FLAG
By mucci
From sf ca
Aug 27, 2014
A 60m is plenty of rope as there are TONS of bail anchors all along the west side.

Don't bail on the finish, the best climbing comes after the north tower summit.


Funny to watch every party bail off the north summit, as you fly on by to the "goods".

FLAG
By Conor Galvin
Aug 27, 2014
If you still feel uncomfortable with just the 60M rope, you could definitley take some extra cord or webbing and a couple bail biners. The west face of the north summit has infinite horns that you could sling if you find yourself out of reach of an already established bail spot. Also, take a windbreaker, especially if you plan to start early. When my partner and I did the traverse, we forgot. And man, we paid for it.

FLAG
By Jason Kim
From Encinitas, CA
Aug 27, 2014
Descending Cox Col (Bear Creek Spire). Photo by Ryan Slaybaugh. <br />
Never mind, just found this thread:

mountainproject.com/v/matthes-...

FLAG
By Jason Kim
From Encinitas, CA
Aug 27, 2014
Descending Cox Col (Bear Creek Spire). Photo by Ryan Slaybaugh. <br />
Thanks for the tips, fellas. Neither my partner or I have ever simul-climbed or done a route of this length, so we will have to see how things go up there.

FLAG
By mucci
From sf ca
Aug 27, 2014
From that link above:
One guidebook says that if want to continue N along the ridge from tne North summmit to say the Echo Ridge or the Echo-Coxcomb col, you get into non-well-protected 5.8 down-climbing

After the North summit, you head down the east side, where a large triangular flake is perched above the 5.8 down climbing ramp. there is usually a sling around the top of it.

You clip this sling, down climb the section placing gear, then belay after the hard moves to the ledge (obvious).

Your second then down climbs to the flake, keeps the rope clipped in, and gets a Top rope while downclimbing to you.

Pull the rope and finish the ridge.

This if you are not comfortable with having your second downclimb the section after the flake.

Start early.

FLAG
By Conor Galvin
Aug 27, 2014
If you want to practice simul-climbing before you get on the matthes crest, you could simul Tenaya peak. Low-angle, most of it is easy 5th and 4th class, and you can see and communicate with your partner most of the time (not so much on matthes). Also, for matthes, there are two places I wouldn't recommend simuling, unless you are very confident. In order to get onto the ridge from the south end, I would lead and follow two pitches. Then, I would lead one more pitch from the saddle between the two summits to the north summit. I can't speak for the rest of the climb, as I rapped from the north summit.

FLAG
By Stevee B
From Oakland, CA
Aug 27, 2014
Abiding at the GWI.
The north summit is great but it does have a couple of spicy, difficult to protect, high consequence moves.
Supertopo: "exposed 5.8 downclimb poor pro." Know your heart before you get to it, I don't recall it being a good spot to rap from.

FLAG
 
By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Aug 27, 2014
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012
When I did it I thought the hardest part was the steep crack leading up to the North summit, everything after that point, while more sustained than the first half, was no more difficult. A good portion of the first half is a sidewalk that if you're comfortable hiking with exposure does not require a rope. Have fun, and definitely do not skip out on the 2nd half if you have the time, it's the best part.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.