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Matterhorn: West Face Chimney

Name: Matterhorn: West Face Chimney
Rating: 1.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A1

Routes in Ice Lake Peaks

	Exegesis T AI2 M2-3 Steep Snow
	Matterhorn: West Face Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
	Matterhorn: West Face Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
	Razzberry Mt. T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

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Type:	Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade IV
FA:	Dave Coughlin and Dave Jensen in 1973
Page Views:	3,711 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Billcoe on Mar 3, 2009
Admins:	Brennan Crellin, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Dave Jensen had this to say on the 2 big Matterhorn climbs he did: "The Grade IV (up the West Face chimney) was much the better climb--fun exciting free climbing in cracks and chimneys to a ledge one pitch below the finish. The V was aid climbing in the hard places with hammock bivouac followed by a ledge bivouac. Poor rock and dangerous on both climbs. A lot of work hauling in there.

Location

Drive through Enterprise to Joseph on Highway 82, and keep going to the end of the highway at the south end of Wallowa Lake. The Wallowa Lake trailhead is at the very end of the road, elevation 4,600 feet. Take the West Fork Wallowa River trail.