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This granite peak is the centerpiece of the Sawtooth Ridge, at the northern end of the High Sierra. The West side of the Sawtooth Ridge lies within the Yosemite high country, the East side is within the Hoover Wilderness, above Bridgeport and Twin Lakes, California.
Most common approach is from Twin Lakes on the Horse Creek trailhead.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Matterhorn Peak:
North Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches
Featured Route For Matterhorn Peak
North Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CA : High Sierra : Matterhorn Peak
From Twin Lakes hike south along the Horse Creek Trail, when it heads up and left keep going south along Horse Creeek, at about 8600' cut right and head up steep terrain towards the peak. Limited campsites.The climbing difficulty is fairly consistent throughout. The first pitch involves some rotten rock and is poorly protected. The last two pitches below the summit ridge are probably the hardest, and feel more like 5.8 than 5.6, but they also have the sweetest moves and the best rock. Once on...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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