This granite peak is the centerpiece of the Sawtooth Ridge, at the northern end of the High Sierra. The West side of the Sawtooth Ridge lies within the Yosemite high country, the East side is within the Hoover Wilderness, above Bridgeport and Twin Lakes, California.
Most common approach is from Twin Lakes on the Horse Creek trailhead.
Browse More Classics in Matterhorn Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Matterhorn Peak:
North Arete 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II
Double Dihedral 5.8 Easy Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Featured Route For Matterhorn Peak
Double Dihedral 5.8 Easy Snow PG13 CA : High Sierra : Matterhorn Peak
Start on the right side of North Arete. After the approach up the narrow snow gully (just left of West Couloir) climb in a big left-facing dihedral (that is likely to have some snow or ice in it). Climb up the dihedral. Than traverse left to a ledge, and up to the second dihedral with a wide crack. This 2nd dihedral could be reached from the left side of the North Arete as well. Climb up this dihedral (crux) to a head-wall. There is a block to sling right under the headwall. Sling this block and...[more] Browse More Classics in CA